Menjangan: the island with Bali's best visibility

Menjangan is a low, dry island about a kilometre off the north-west tip of Bali, inside the boundaries of West Bali National Park. The name means deer, and the animals are still there, grazing the coastal scrub and swimming between the islands. It is the only place in Bali where you can see a wild deer from a dive boat.

The main attraction is underwater. The island's coral walls drop from the surface to 40 metres, with giant sea fans, soft coral and a density of reef fish that is unusual for Bali. Visibility often reaches 25 to 30 metres, which is why Menjangan is a fixture on every Bali diving itinerary and a favourite of photographers.

The island and the park

Menjangan is part of West Bali National Park, a protected area that covers the western tip of Bali and the surrounding sea. The island itself is dry, with savanna, scrub and a few tall trees, and it supports a population of deer, monkeys and sea eagles. There is a small temple and a ranger post, and no accommodation for visitors.

Landing on the island is allowed, and the walk around the shore takes about an hour. The deer are habituated and will approach for food, which is not good for them; do not feed them. The park fee covers the island and the surrounding water, and the rangers collect it at the jetty. Bring the receipt with you: rangers check it again on the island, and the boats are not allowed to land without it.

The dive sites

The diving is concentrated on the north and east coasts, where the reef drops in walls and slopes. The classic sites are Eel Garden, with its garden of sand eels, the Temple Wall and the Bat Cave, and the shallow coral gardens along the north shore that suit snorkellers and open-water divers.

The marine life is the reason to come: turtles, reef sharks, napoleon wrasse, large groupers, schools of fusiliers and, in the right season, manta rays and the occasional whale shark. The coral is healthy in places and damaged in others, and the walls are the best of it. Currents can be strong, so dive with an operator that knows the sites. Most shops run two dives in the morning and a snorkel stop in the afternoon, which suits the crossing times and the afternoon wind.

Snorkelling and non-divers

You do not have to dive to enjoy Menjangan. The boat trips include snorkelling stops, and the shallow gardens on the north shore have coral, fish and turtles in three to eight metres of water. The visibility is the same, and the water is warm. Snorkellers should stay over the coral gardens rather than the wall, where the drop-off and the current are less forgiving.

Non-divers can also walk on the island, swim from the beach and watch the deer. The trip is usually a full day: pick-up from Pemuteran or Lovina at eight, boat at nine, two or three stops, lunch on the boat or the island, back by four. It is a long day for children, but the snorkelling is gentle.

Park fees, boats and operators

The park charges an entrance fee, usually collected at Labuhan Lalang or on the island, and the boat crossing is separate. Expect Rp 200,000 to 400,000 per person for the park fee plus Rp 500,000 to 800,000 for the boat, depending on the operator and the number of passengers. The fee is higher on Sundays and public holidays, when domestic visitors arrive in numbers.

Boats leave from Labuhan Lalang, a small harbour 20 minutes west of Pemuteran. Dive shops in Pemuteran and Lovina run scheduled trips and can arrange gear, guides and lunch. Book a day ahead in high season, and confirm whether the park fee is included in the quoted price.

When to go and where to stay

The best months are April to November, when the north coast is dry and the water is calm. Visibility is best from June to September. In the wet season the crossing can be rough and the visibility drops, and some operators stop running trips in January and February.

There is no accommodation on Menjangan itself. The nearest bases are Pemuteran, 20 minutes east, and Lovina, two hours east, with the small resorts inside West Bali National Park at Labuhan Lalang for a quieter stay. Most people visit as a day trip and sleep in Pemuteran.

Getting there and what to bring

From Pemuteran, the drive to Labuhan Lalang is 20 minutes; from Lovina, two hours; from Ubud, three and a half hours. Most dive shops include the transfer. If you are driving yourself, the car park at Labuhan Lalang is signed and the boats are easy to find. The crossing is short but can be wet, so put your bag in a dry bag and wear something you do not mind getting splashed.

Bring reef-safe sunscreen, a rash vest, water and cash for the park fee and lunch. The island has no shops and very little shade. Underwater cameras are welcome, but do not touch the coral, and give the turtles space.

• Book through a Pemuteran dive shop; transfers and park fees are usually bundled.
• Two dives plus snorkelling is the standard day; leave by eight, back by four.
• No shops or shade on the island: water, hat, cash, reef-safe sunscreen.
• Do not feed the deer, and do not stand on the coral for a photograph.

Questions people actually ask

Is Menjangan good for snorkelling?

Yes. The shallow coral gardens on the north shore have coral, fish and turtles in a few metres of water, with the same visibility as the dive sites. The boat trip usually includes a snorkelling stop.

How much does a Menjangan day trip cost?

Expect Rp 800,000 to 1,500,000 per person including the boat, park fee and lunch, depending on the operator and whether you dive. Snorkelling trips are cheaper than two-dive packages.

Can you stay on Menjangan island?

No. There is no accommodation on the island. Stay in Pemuteran or at Labuhan Lalang on the mainland, and visit as a day trip.

When is the best time to dive Menjangan?

June to September for visibility and calm seas. April, May, October and November are also good. The wet season brings rougher crossings and lower visibility.