Nusa Dua: Bali inside the gates

Nusa Dua was built in the 1970s as a deliberate alternative to Kuta: a walled zone of five-star hotels, golf courses and convention centres on a stretch of coast where the reef keeps the water flat. The name means two islands, after the two small headlands at the southern end of the bay.

The result is efficient and slightly sterile. You can walk from your room to the beach without crossing a road, eat at a dozen restaurants, and never see a traffic jam. You will also never see much of Bali. Whether that is a problem depends entirely on the kind of holiday you are taking.

What the enclave actually is

The Bali Tourism Development Corporation zone is a gated area of about 400 hectares, with its own security, roads and landscaping. Inside are the big resorts — Sofitel, Conrad, Grand Hyatt, St Regis, Mulia — plus a shopping centre, a museum, a golf course and the convention centre. Outside the gate is the ordinary village of Bualu and the road to Denpasar.

The gate matters. It keeps out the traffic and the touts, and it also keeps you in. If you want to eat somewhere cheap or see a temple, you leave the zone by taxi. Some people find that relaxing; others find it claustrophobic after three days. Museum Pasifika, inside the zone, is the one cultural stop: a private collection of Asian and Pacific art with a good Balinese section, and rarely busy.

The beach, the reef and swimming

Nusa Dua beach is long, pale and clean, with a reef offshore that keeps the water flat and shallow. It is the best swimming beach in south Bali for children: no surf, no current, and lifeguards at the main access points. At low tide the reef flat is exposed, so plan around the tide if you want depth.

The best stretch runs from the Grand Hyatt south to the Water Blow, where the sand is wide and the water clearest. sunrise over the bay is genuinely beautiful, and the beach is nearly empty before seven. Snorkelling inside the reef is poor; for reef life, take a boat from Tanjung Benoa or head to Nusa Penida. Beach chairs belong to the hotels immediately behind them, so if you are not staying there, sit on the sand or buy a drink from the beach warung.

The Water Blow and the southern headlands

At the southern end of the bay, a short walk from the beach, the Water Blow is a rock formation where the swell funnels into a narrow channel and explodes upward in a plume of spray. It is free, it is loud, and on a big swell it is spectacular. Stay behind the railing; people have been injured by the waves.

The headlands around it have a short clifftop path with views back along the bay, and there is a small warung selling drinks at the car park. It is the one place in Nusa Dua where the coast feels wild rather than landscaped, and it is worth an hour of your morning. Go before ten, when the tour buses arrive and the spray turns the path slippery.

Tanjung Benoa and the watersports

Just north of Nusa Dua, the peninsula of Tanjung Benoa is the watersports centre of Bali: parasailing, jet skis, banana boats, flyboarding, and boats out to the reef for snorkelling and sea walking. It is commercial and a bit chaotic, but it is also where the family activities are.

Prices are negotiable and packages are common; expect Rp 300,000 to 700,000 per activity, or around Rp 1,000,000 for a package. Book through a reputable operator, check the safety equipment, and do not sign up for anything that involves chasing dolphins. The peninsula is also where the fishing boats leave for the reef, so mornings are busier than afternoons.

Where to stay and what it costs

This is the most expensive accommodation zone in Bali after Uluwatu. The five-star resorts run from Rp 3,000,000 to Rp 10,000,000 a night, and the villas at the top end are considerably more. The mid-range options inside the gate are limited, which is why many families book a resort package with breakfast and airport transfer included.

The value alternative is just outside: guesthouses in Bualu and Tanjung Benoa start around Rp 500,000 and give you access to the same beach via a short walk or a taxi. You lose the pool and the buffet, and you gain the ability to eat somewhere other than a hotel restaurant. Families should compare a package rate with breakfast and transfers against room-only; the difference is often smaller than it looks.

Getting there and a three-day plan

The airport is 12 km away, 20 to 35 minutes by car; a taxi is Rp 200,000 to 300,000. Ubud is 90 minutes, Seminyak 40, Uluwatu 40. Inside the zone you walk or take the shuttle; for anything else, a taxi or a hired car with a driver.

Three nights suits the place: one to arrive and swim, one for the Water Blow and Tanjung Benoa, one for a day trip to Uluwatu or Ubud. It is not a base for exploring Bali, and it does not pretend to be.

• Day 1: swim, resort lunch, sunset on the beach.
• Day 2: Water Blow in the morning, Tanjung Benoa watersports in the afternoon.
• Day 3: day trip to Uluwatu and Padang Padang, or a boat to Nusa Penida.
• Eat outside the gate at least once; the difference in price is large.

Questions people actually ask

Is Nusa Dua worth it, or is it too sterile?

For a family beach holiday with young children, yes: calm water, safe paths and everything on site. For travellers who want to see Bali, three nights is enough, and Ubud or Sanur makes a better base.

Can you swim at Nusa Dua at low tide?

The reef flat is exposed at low tide, so you have to walk out a long way to find depth. Swim at mid to high tide; the sea is calm and shallow at the other times.

Is the Water Blow free?

Yes. It is a public rock formation at the southern end of the bay, with a car park and a warung. Stay behind the railing when the swell is big.

How do I get from Nusa Dua to Ubud?

By car, about 90 minutes to two hours depending on traffic. A private driver is Rp 600,000 to 900,000 for the day, and it is worth leaving early to avoid the Denpasar congestion.