Anambas: remote islands in the South China Sea

The Anambas Islands sit in the South China Sea, roughly halfway between Singapore and the Vietnamese coast, and they are about as far from the Indonesian tourist trail as you can get while still being in Indonesia. The main town is Tarempa on Siantan island, a small port with a market, a mosque and a harbour where the ferries tie up.

People come for the water. The reefs around the archipelago are healthy, the visibility is good in the calm season, and there are wrecks and drop-offs for divers. The beaches are white and empty, the villages are friendly, and the infrastructure is thin: a handful of guesthouses, no resorts, and boats that leave when they are full.

Tarempa and the main islands

Tarempa is the administrative centre and the transport hub, built around a bay on the west coast of Siantan. It has a market, a few shops, simple restaurants and guesthouses, and a harbour with boats to the surrounding islands. It is not picturesque in the way the beaches are, but it is the place to organise everything else.

The main islands are Siantan, Jemaja, Matak and Palmatak, each with villages, beaches and boat access to the reefs. Palmatak has some of the best beaches and the easiest access; Jemaja, further south, is quieter and more remote. Boats between them are chartered by the day, and the crossings depend on the weather.

Diving and snorkelling

The diving is the reason serious visitors make the journey. There are coral gardens, walls and pinnacles, and several wrecks, including a large one that sits in deep water and is dived by liveaboard boats. Visibility can reach thirty metres in the calm season, and the fish life is rich: groupers, snappers, napoleon wrasse, reef sharks and turtles.

Dive infrastructure is limited. There are a few small operators, mostly in Tarempa and on the liveaboards that pass through, and gear is best brought rather than rented. Snorkellers can see a lot from the beaches and the shallow reefs, especially around Palmatak and the smaller islands. Check conditions and currents before you go out.

Getting there

The usual route is a flight from Batam to Tarempa, which takes about an hour when it operates, or a long ferry from Tanjung Pinang that runs overnight and takes most of a day. Neither is entirely reliable: weather, demand and maintenance all affect the schedule, so build in a buffer at both ends.

There is also a flight connection via Matak, and boats from Batam for those with time and patience. Whatever route you take, book through a local agent or your guesthouse, confirm the day before, and keep your plans flexible. The Anambas reward people who are not in a hurry.

Staying and eating

Accommodation is simple: guesthouses, homestays and a couple of small hotels, mostly in Tarempa and on Palmatak. Do not expect hot water, reliable Wi-Fi or a pool. Do expect clean rooms, friendly families and meals of fish, rice and vegetables, often eaten with the people who run the place.

Cash is essential. There are few ATMs and cards are close to useless outside the main town. Bring enough rupiah for your whole stay, plus a margin for boat charters. Mobile signal exists in Tarempa and fades quickly between the islands; download what you need before you arrive.

• Fly from Batam or take the long ferry from Tanjung Pinang.
• Bring cash: ATMs are scarce and cards rarely work.
• Charter boats by the day and agree the price first.
• Bring your own mask, fins and dive gear if you can.
• March to October for calmer seas and clearer water.

Weather, sea and safety

The Anambas sit in the South China Sea, which means the monsoon matters more than the calendar. The north-east monsoon, from December to March, brings wind, rain and a confused sea; the crossings are uncomfortable and the boats are often cancelled. From April to October the wind drops, the water clears and the diving is at its best.

That does not make the wet season impossible, but it does make it a gamble. Liveaboards schedule their trips in the calm months, and the small operators in Tarempa follow the same pattern. If you are flying in for a short trip, come between April and October, and give yourself at least a day of slack for weather.

Medical facilities are basic. Tarempa has a small hospital and clinics, but serious cases are evacuated to Batam, Singapore or Jakarta, which takes time. Dive insurance with evacuation cover is not optional here. There is no decompression chamber in the archipelago, so dive conservatively, check your gear and do not push the last dive of the trip.

Questions people actually ask

How do you get to the Anambas Islands?

Most people fly from Batam to Tarempa, a flight of about an hour when it operates, or take an overnight ferry from Tanjung Pinang. Schedules are unreliable, so confirm before you travel and allow a buffer day on each side. Some visitors arrive by liveaboard from Singapore or Batam.

Is there good diving in the Anambas?

Yes. The archipelago has healthy reefs, walls, pinnacles and several wrecks, with visibility that can reach thirty metres in the calm season. Infrastructure is limited, so bring your own gear or check with a local operator before you rely on rental equipment.