Pantai Trikora: the long east coast of Bintan

Pantai Trikora is the name for a stretch of coast on the east side of Bintan, not a single beach. It runs for several kilometres, divided into numbered sections, each with a car park, a few warungs and a strip of white sand. It is where people from Tanjung Pinang go at the weekend, and it is a completely different experience from the resorts on the north coast.

The water is shallow a long way out, the sand is fine and pale, and the palms lean over the top of the beach in the way that postcards promise. There is no development to speak of: no hotels, no beach clubs, just food stalls, fishing boats and the occasional kite. If you want a quiet swim and a grilled fish, this is the place.

The four beaches

The coast is usually described as Trikora 1 to 4, running from north to south. Each has a slightly different character: some are wide and open, others are tucked behind palms and rocks, and some have better swimming than others depending on the reef and the tide.

Trikora 1 is the closest to Tanjung Pinang and the busiest. Further south the beaches get quieter, and by Trikora 4 you may have the sand to yourself on a weekday. Walk between them along the shore if the tide allows, or drive and stop where you like.

Swimming and the reef

A reef offshore breaks the swell, which is why the water close to the beach is usually calm and shallow. At low tide you can walk a long way out over sand and rubble; at high tide there is enough water for a proper swim. Watch the tide: it moves fast and the beach changes shape through the day.

Snorkelling is possible on the reef edge, but it is not the reason to come. Bintan's best diving is further out, around the islands to the north and east. Trikora is for swimming, sitting under a palm and eating. Bring reef shoes if you plan to walk on the flats.

• Swim at high tide; low tide exposes a long flat.
• Reef shoes are useful on the rubble and coral debris.
• The current can be strong at the reef edge.
• There are no lifeguards: swim with company.

Warungs and food

The warungs are the best thing about Trikora. They are simple wooden buildings with plastic chairs, a grill and a fridge, and they serve fish, squid, rice, noodles and coconuts. You pick your fish, they grill it, and you eat it looking at the water. It is cheap, fresh and one of the great pleasures of Bintan.

Prices rise at weekends and on public holidays, and the beaches get busy with families, motorbikes and music. If you want quiet, come on a weekday. If you want atmosphere, come on a Sunday afternoon when half of Tanjung Pinang seems to be there.

The menu is short and predictable, which is a good sign: fish, squid, prawns, rice, noodles, coconut and cold drinks. Ask what came in that morning, and do not be shy about pointing at the tank or the ice box. Most warungs will grill it however you like, with chilli or without.

Getting there

Trikora is about an hour from Tanjung Pinang by road, on a good sealed road that runs along the east coast. There are no direct buses to the beaches, so most visitors come by car, scooter or ride-hailing app. From the ferry terminal at Tanjung Pinang, it is a straightforward drive.

If you are staying on the north coast around Lagoi, the drive takes longer, up to two hours depending on the route. A day trip is feasible, but an overnight in Tanjung Pinang gives you the beach at sunset and sunrise without the drive back in the dark.

The road itself is part of the day out. It passes kampungs, small harbours, rubber and coconut plantations and a few roadside stalls selling grilled corn and fresh coconuts. Stop when something looks interesting: the east coast is not a place where you need a plan.

When to go

The east coast is at its best from March to October, when the wind is lighter and the sea is calmer. The north-east monsoon, from December to February, brings wind and rain and can make the water choppy, though the reef still protects the beach most of the time.

Avoid the hottest part of the day: there is shade under the palms but the sand gets very hot by noon. Early morning and late afternoon are the best times, both for the light and for the temperature. Bring sun cream, water and cash for the warungs.

Questions people actually ask

Is Pantai Trikora good for swimming?

Yes, at high tide. A reef offshore keeps the water calm, and the sand is shallow a long way out. At low tide a long flat is exposed, so check the tide before you go in. There are no lifeguards, and the current can be strong at the reef edge.

How do you get to Pantai Trikora from Tanjung Pinang?

By road, about an hour along the east coast. There is no direct bus, so most people come by car, scooter or ride-hailing app. The road is good, and the four beach sections are all on it.