Lampung: rhinos, islands and the volcano that broke the sky

Lampung is the part of Sumatra closest to Java, and for most travellers it is a place you pass through on the ferry from Merak. That is a mistake. The province has the only place on earth where you can reasonably hope to see a Sumatran rhinoceros, a marine park with some of the easiest snorkelling in Indonesia, and a coastline that faces the Sunda Strait and the remains of Krakatoa.

It is also a working agricultural province: coffee, pepper, cassava and sugar, with a coastline that ranges from crowded weekend beaches near the capital to empty surf points on the west coast. The distances are longer than they look on a map, and the roads are slow, but four days gets you the highlights.

Bandar Lampung and the Sunda Strait

Bandar Lampung is the capital and the ferry gateway from Java. The crossing from Merak takes about two hours, and the port at Bakauheni is a constant stream of trucks, buses and motorbikes. Most travellers arrive, eat, and leave. The city itself is not beautiful, but it has good seafood, a lively market and the best coffee in the province.

The geography is what matters. Lampung is the southern tip of Sumatra, and the Sunda Strait separates it from Java. Krakatoa sits in the strait, and the whole coast is volcanic: black sand beaches, steep headlands and a sea that can turn from flat to violent in an afternoon. The 1883 eruption of Krakatoa destroyed most of the island, generated tsunamis that killed tens of thousands of people, and produced a sound heard thousands of kilometres away.

Use Bandar Lampung as a base for the first and last nights. The islands and the national park are within day-trip range, and the west coast is a long but spectacular drive.

Pahawang and the islands

Pahawang is a small island off the Pesawaran coast, about an hour's drive south of Bandar Lampung and then a 30- to 45-minute boat ride from the Ketapang jetty. The water is clear, the reef is shallow and healthy, and the whole island can be walked in an hour. It is the most accessible snorkelling in Sumatra, which is both its appeal and its problem: weekends and holidays are busy.

The standard trip includes several stops: Pulau Pahawang for snorkelling, Pulau Kelagian for a sandbank and lunch, and Pulau Tanjung Putus for the shallow reef. Boats can be arranged at the jetty or through a guesthouse, and prices are negotiable. Go on a weekday if you can, bring reef-safe sunscreen, and do not stand on the coral.

There are simple homestays on Pahawang and a handful of resorts on the mainland. The island has no ATMs and limited electricity, so bring cash and a power bank. The sunset from the western beach is the main evening event.

Teluk Kiluan and the dolphins

Teluk Kiluan is a bay on the Tanggamus coast, about three hours from Bandar Lampung, where spinner dolphins come close to shore in the early morning. Boats leave around sunrise and usually find pods within 20 to 40 minutes. The dolphins are wild and the boats are small, so the experience depends on the day and on the skill of the boatman.

The bay itself is beautiful: a narrow entrance, steep green hills and a long curve of beach. Accommodation is basic, mostly homestays and simple cottages, and the seafood is excellent. It is a two-night place rather than a day trip, because the drive is long and the dolphins are only reliable at dawn.

Ask around before booking. Some operators chase the dolphins aggressively, which is bad for the animals and for the experience. Choose a boatman who keeps a respectful distance and cuts the engine when the pod is close.

Way Kambas and the rhinos

Way Kambas National Park covers around 1,300 square kilometres of lowland forest and swamp in eastern Lampung. It is one of the last strongholds of the Sumatran rhinoceros, the smallest and most endangered rhino species, and the Sumatran Rhino Sanctuary inside the park is the centre of the breeding programme. The park also has elephants, tigers, tapirs and a rich bird list.

Visiting is not like a safari in Africa. The forest is dense, the animals are shy, and the rhino sanctuary is a conservation facility rather than a zoo. Access is by arrangement with the park or a tour operator, and the experience usually includes a jeep drive, a walk, and a visit to the elephant conservation centre. The rhinos themselves may be off-limits or viewable only at a distance, depending on the current protocols.

The park is a two- to three-hour drive from Bandar Lampung, and the best visits are overnight, staying at one of the simple lodges near the entrance. Bring binoculars, insect repellent and patience. The elephant patrols and the night drives are the most reliable ways to see wildlife.

Krakatoa and Anak Krakatau

The Krakatoa archipelago sits in the Sunda Strait between Lampung and Java. The 1883 eruption obliterated the original island and left a caldera in the sea; Anak Krakatau, the child volcano, emerged from the water in 1927 and has been growing and collapsing ever since. A partial collapse in December 2018 triggered a tsunami on the Lampung and Banten coasts.

Boat trips leave from the Lampung side, usually from Kalianda or Canti, and take two to three hours to reach the islands. Landing on Anak Krakatau is not permitted and would be dangerous; the boats circle the island, stop at the caldera viewpoint and snorkel around the reef. The water is warm, the coral is recovering, and the scale of the volcano is best understood from the sea.

This is a weather-dependent trip. The strait can be rough, and operators cancel when the swell is up. Book with a company that has a proper boat, life jackets and a radio, and do not bargain your way onto a fishing boat with no safety gear. The trip is worth doing once, and the sight of the black cone rising out of the water is unforgettable.

Tanjung Setia and the surf coast

The west coast of Lampung, in Pesisir Barat regency, has some of the best waves in Indonesia and almost no crowds. Tanjung Setia is the best-known break, a long left-hander that works on the same swells as Bali and can hold size. The village has a handful of surf lodges, a few warungs and a lot of empty beach.

The drive from Bandar Lampung takes five to six hours on a winding road through coffee and pepper country. It is worth it if you surf, and worth it even if you do not: the coast is dramatic, the sunsets are enormous, and the fishing villages are friendly. Krui, further north, is the other surf hub and the gateway to the Bukit Barisan Selatan national park.

Bring your own board and spare fins. There is no surf shop, no board rental worth the name, and no medical facility nearby. The nearest hospital is hours away.

What it costs, and when to go

Lampung is inexpensive. A hotel room in Bandar Lampung costs IDR 250,000 to 450,000, and a simple homestay on Pahawang or in Teluk Kiluan is less. A day boat to Pahawang is usually IDR 500,000 to 900,000 for the boat, not per person, and a Krakatoa trip is IDR 1,500,000 to 3,000,000 depending on the boat and the group size.

The driest months are roughly May to September, which is also the best time for the islands and the volcano. The west coast surf season runs from about April to October, when the Indian Ocean swell is consistent. Rain is possible in any month, and the strait can be closed by weather at short notice.

• Day 1: Bandar Lampung — seafood, market, arrange boats.
• Day 2: Pahawang and the islands — snorkelling, sandbank, sunset.
• Day 3: Way Kambas — jeep drive, elephant centre, overnight near the park.
• Day 4: Krakatoa boat trip from Kalianda, or the long drive to Tanjung Setia for surf.

Questions people actually ask

Can I see a Sumatran rhino at Way Kambas?

Not reliably. The sanctuary is a breeding and conservation facility, and access depends on current protocols. You may see rhinos at a distance or not at all. Go for the forest, the elephants and the birds, and treat a rhino sighting as a bonus.

Is the Krakatoa boat trip safe?

With a proper operator, yes. Choose a company with a seaworthy boat, life jackets and a radio, and accept that trips are cancelled when the strait is rough. Do not take a fishing boat with no safety gear.

How do I get to Pahawang?

Drive south from Bandar Lampung to the Ketapang jetty in Pesawaran, then take a boat for 30 to 45 minutes. Boats can be arranged at the jetty or through a guesthouse; go on a weekday to avoid the crowds.

Where should I surf in Lampung?

Tanjung Setia and Krui on the west coast are the main breaks. The season runs roughly April to October, and the drive from Bandar Lampung is five to six hours. Bring your own board and spares.