Gili Trawangan: the island with no cars

Gili Trawangan is about three kilometres long and two wide, ringed by white sand and coral, and it has no motor vehicles. Everything moves by bicycle, on foot or by horse cart. You can walk around the island in two hours, and most people end up doing it at least twice.

The island has been through several lives: backpacker secret, full-moon party destination, dive resort, and now something in between. The bars still exist, mostly on the eastern side, but the loudest years are behind it. What remains is a good place to learn to dive, watch turtles from the shore, and do very little for a few days.

The island and its three shores

The east coast, where the boats arrive, is the busiest: restaurants, dive shops, bars and the widest choice of rooms. The west coast is the sunset side, quieter, with beach bars on the sand and a view across the water to Bali's Mount Agung. The north and south are quieter still, with a handful of resorts and long empty beaches.

The interior is a mix of coconut palms, scrub, a few houses and the island's mosque, whose call to prayer is the loudest thing on Trawangan. There is no natural water, so everything is trucked in from Lombok or produced by desalination; the island asks visitors to use water carefully, and the signs are not decorative.

Diving and snorkelling

Trawangan is one of the cheapest places in Indonesia to learn to dive, and the reef around the three islands has turtles, reef sharks, octopus and a lot of coral. Dive shops line the east coast and offer open-water courses from around Rp 4,000,000, fun dives from Rp 500,000, and trips to the wreck of the Bounty, a deliberately sunk artificial reef.

Snorkelling from the beach is best on the east and north coasts, where the coral is shallow and the turtles graze. The currents can be strong between the islands, so go with a guide or a boat, and do not snorkel alone at the points. The afternoon is calmer than the morning on the east side. If you are not certified, a discover-scuba session in the shallow reef is a good introduction; the water is warm, the depth is manageable and the instructors are used to beginners.

The bicycle circuit and the sunset

Rent a bicycle for the day (about Rp 50,000) and ride the circuit. The path is sandy in places and turns into a track on the west side, but the whole loop takes about an hour and passes the mosque, the turtle hatchery, the sunset bars and the quiet northern beaches. Stop where you like; there is no traffic to worry about.

The sunset is the daily event. The west coast bars put out beanbags, the sky turns orange behind the silhouette of Bali's mountains, and the boats come back from the dive sites. Get there by five-thirty to get a seat, and stay for dinner; the grilled fish at the beach restaurants is the best meal on the island.

Nightlife and the quieter reality

Trawangan's party reputation comes from the 1990s and 2000s, when full-moon parties filled the east coast. There are still bars, still cheap cocktails and still a crowd that stays up late, mostly in the southern end of the east strip. It is not the island's whole personality, and it is easy to avoid.

If you want quiet, stay on the west or north coast, where the loudest thing is the sea. The island is small enough that you can walk to the bars if you want them and walk away when you do not. That is the advantage of a place this size.

Where to stay and what it costs

Accommodation runs from simple beach bungalows at Rp 300,000 to boutique hotels at Rp 2,500,000, with a cluster of mid-range places around Rp 800,000 to 1,500,000. The east coast is convenient and noisy; the west coast is prettier and quieter; the north is the most peaceful and the furthest from the bars.

Book ahead in July and August, and expect the island to be busy over Christmas and New Year. The prices are higher than Lombok but lower than Bali, and the quality varies enormously. Read the reviews, check whether the room has hot water and air conditioning, and do not expect the beach to be pristine outside the main strips. The best-value rooms are a street back from the waterfront, where the price drops by a third for a two-minute walk.

Getting there and a three-day plan

Fast boats run from Sanur and Padang Bai in Bali (about two hours) and from Bangsal in Lombok (about 20 minutes). The crossing can be rough in the wet season, and the boats are often delayed. Book through a reputable operator, allow a day either side of your flight, and keep your luggage dry.

Three nights is the minimum. Add a day for a dive course or a trip to Gili Meno and Gili Air, and another for doing nothing at all. The island rewards people who slow down, which is convenient, because there is not much else to do.

• Day 1: arrive, walk the east coast, sunset on the west, dinner on the beach.
• Day 2: dive or snorkel in the morning, bicycle circuit in the afternoon.
• Day 3: boat to Gili Air or Meno, or a lazy day on the north beach.
• Bring cash: there are ATMs, but they run out and the queues are long.

Questions people actually ask

Is Gili Trawangan still a party island?

Partly. There are bars and cheap cocktails on the east coast, but the island is calmer than it was ten years ago, and the west and north coasts are quiet. You can avoid the nightlife entirely.

Can you swim from the beach on Gili Trawangan?

Yes, but the best swimming and snorkelling is on the east and north coasts. The west coast has more coral rubble and a stronger swell. Watch the currents between the islands.

How do I get from Bali to Gili Trawangan?

Fast boats leave Sanur and Padang Bai in the morning and take about two hours. Book a day ahead, allow for delays, and keep your luggage in a dry bag.

Are there ATMs on Gili Trawangan?

Yes, but they are unreliable and often empty. Bring enough cash for your stay, plus a buffer, and change money in Bali or Lombok before you cross.