Gili Meno: the smallest Gili, and the quietest

Gili Meno is the smallest of the three islands, about two kilometres long and one wide, with a population of around 500 people, a single village, a salt lake and a lot of empty beach. There are no bars with live music and no dive schools on every corner. There is one road, and it is mostly sand.

It is the honeymoon island of the group, and also the island for people who have been travelling for a while and want a few days of nothing. The reef is good, the sunsets are excellent, and the main decision each day is which beach to walk to.

The island and the lake

The village is in the middle, with a mosque, a school and a few shops. The salt lake, Danau Meno, sits behind the eastern beach and is the island's oddity: a shallow, brackish lagoon where salt was once harvested, now a quiet spot for birds and a short walk. It is not a swimming lake, and the mosquitoes are enthusiastic at dusk.

The beaches are the attraction. The west coast has the sunset and the widest sand; the east coast has the harbour, the reef and the turtle hatchery; the north and south are almost empty. You can walk the whole island in an hour and a half, and you will probably do it every day. There are no street lights, so bring a torch if you are walking after dinner.

Snorkelling, the statues and the turtles

The reef on the east side is shallow and calm, with coral gardens, turtles and a good variety of reef fish. The famous underwater statues — a circle of life-size human figures at about five metres — are a short swim from the east beach and are now covered in coral. They are popular with snorkellers and divers, and the site can be crowded at midday.

The turtle hatchery on the east coast releases hatchlings in the late afternoon, and the reef is a regular feeding ground for green and hawksbill turtles. Snorkel with a guide if you want to find them, and keep your distance: the turtles are habituated but they are still wild animals, and touching them is illegal.

The beaches and the sunset

The west beach is the sunset side: a long curve of pale sand with a few beanbag bars and a view across the water to Bali's Mount Agung. It is one of the quietest sunset spots in Indonesia, and the light is best in the half hour before the sun goes down. The bars serve a decent gin and tonic and not much else, and the music is kept low enough that you can hear the water.

The north beach is even quieter, with a shallow reef flat and a few fishing boats. The south has the best swimming at mid tide. The tide moves a long way out on all sides, so check the table before you plan a swim; at low tide the reef flat is exposed and the water is knee-deep for hundreds of metres. This is also when the locals gather shellfish, and the flat is worth walking for the shells and the light.

Eating and the pace of the day

There are perhaps twenty places to eat on the island, mostly attached to guesthouses and resorts. The food is simple: grilled fish, nasi goreng, satay, a few Thai and Italian dishes, and fresh fruit. Prices are higher than Lombok and lower than Trawangan, and the service is slow everywhere, which is part of the deal.

Evenings are quiet. A few bars on the west coast serve cocktails until ten, and the rest of the island goes to bed. The mosque is audible at dawn. Bring a book, a torch and cash, and do not expect to be entertained.

Where to stay

The island has a handful of honeymoon resorts at the top end, Rp 2,000,000 to 6,000,000 a night, with private pools and beach access. The mid-range is small bungalows and guesthouses at Rp 600,000 to 1,500,000, and the budget is simple rooms from Rp 300,000. There is not much of anything, which is the appeal.

Book ahead in July, August and around New Year; the good places are small and fill early. Check whether the property has air conditioning and hot water, and whether it is on the west coast for the sunset or the east for the reef. Both are a short walk apart. The cheapest rooms are in family homestays behind the east beach, where breakfast is included and the conversation is better than the coffee.

Getting there and a three-day plan

Fast boats from Bali (Sanur or Padang Bai, about two hours) stop at Meno or at Trawangan with a shuttle boat. From Lombok, local boats leave Bangsal, 90 minutes from the airport, and take about 25 minutes. The crossing is short but can be rough in the wet season.

Three nights is enough, and four is better. The island rewards doing very little: a morning snorkel, a long lunch, a walk to the lake, a sunset on the west beach. It is not the place for a packed itinerary, and it does not pretend to be.

• Day 1: arrive, walk the island, sunset on the west beach.
• Day 2: snorkel the statues and the reef, hatchery in the afternoon.
• Day 3: walk to the salt lake, lunch on the north beach, sunset again.
• Bring cash and a torch; there are no ATMs and the paths are unlit.

Questions people actually ask

Is Gili Meno boring?

If you need nightlife, yes. There are a few bars and no clubs, and the island goes to bed early. If you want quiet beaches, good snorkelling and long lunches, it is the best of the three Gilis.

Can you see the underwater statues by snorkelling?

Yes. The circle of statues is at about five metres, a short swim from the east beach, and is visible from the surface on a clear day. Go in the morning when the water is calmest and the site is quiet.

Are there turtles at Gili Meno?

Yes. Green and hawksbill turtles feed on the reef, and the hatchery releases hatchlings in the afternoon. Snorkel with a guide, keep your distance and do not touch them.

How do I get from Gili Meno to Gili Air or Trawangan?

Local shuttle boats run between the islands in 10 to 20 minutes, or you can charter a boat. The fast boats from Bali stop at Trawangan and shuttle passengers to Meno.