Kintamani: the volcano at the centre of Bali

The road from Ubud climbs through Tegallalang and then breaks out onto a rim with nothing between you and the sky. Below is the Batur caldera: a vast bowl of black lava, green scrub and a crescent lake, with the cone of Mount Batur rising out of the middle. This is Kintamani, and the view is the attraction.

The village itself is a strip of restaurants and guesthouses along the rim road at Penelokan, all facing the same direction. Most people come for the sunrise trek, which starts at three in the morning and ends with breakfast on the summit. Others come for the hot springs, the villages and the drive, which is one of the best in Bali.

The view from Penelokan

Penelokan is the rim village where the road reaches the caldera edge, and every restaurant and hotel along it has the same view. Come in the morning for the clearest light, before the cloud builds on the rim. On a good day you can see Agung to the east and Batukaru to the west, with the whole caldera between them.

There is an area fee of around Rp 30,000 per person, paid at a booth on the road, and parking charges on top. It is worth paying for the viewpoint at the official stop, which has a viewing platform and a row of warungs. The view is free from any restaurant terrace if you buy a coffee.

The Mount Batur sunrise trek

The trek is the reason most people sleep in Kintamani. You leave at three or four in the morning, walk for two hours up a volcanic scree slope in the dark, and reach the summit in time for sunrise at about six. The reward is a view over the caldera, the lake and, on clear days, the peak of Rinjani in Lombok.

It is not a technical climb, but it is a real one: 700 metres of ascent, loose rock, cold wind at the top and a headtorch the whole way. Guides are required and cost around Rp 500,000 to 700,000 per person including breakfast and a pick-up, depending on the operator. Book through your guesthouse, and check whether the price includes the national park fee.

Toya Bungkah and the hot springs

On the lake shore, Toya Bungkah is a village of hot springs and simple guesthouses. The springs are warm, sulphurous and set in concrete pools a few metres from the water, and they are the best way to recover after the trek. Entry is around Rp 50,000.

The village is also the starting point for the easier walk around the lake shore and for boats to Trunyan, the Bali Aga village on the far side where the dead are traditionally laid out under a sacred tree rather than cremated. The boat trip takes about 30 minutes and is arranged at the jetty; agree the price and the waiting time before you get in.

Trunyan and the Bali Aga

Trunyan is one of the few villages in Bali that predates the Javanese Hindu influence, and it keeps its own customs. The cemetery is the reason visitors come: the dead are placed in a bamboo enclosure under a banyan tree, and the smell is said to be absorbed by the tree rather than the air. It is a real burial ground, not a performance.

Dress modestly, do not photograph the remains without permission, and accept that the village is ambivalent about tourism. The boat ride across the lake is beautiful in the early morning, with the volcano above and the water flat. Go with a local guide from Toya Bungkah and be clear about what you are paying for.

Where to stay, and the cold

Guesthouses on the rim start around Rp 400,000 and go up to Rp 1,500,000 for the ones with a view and a heater. The altitude is 1,500 metres and the nights are genuinely cold, so check that the room has hot water and blankets. The lake shore at Toya Bungkah is warmer and cheaper, but you lose the view. Wherever you stay, ask what time the kitchen closes; after eight in the evening the rim road is dark and the only food is what your hotel has.

If you are doing the sunrise trek, stay as close to the trailhead as possible; the pick-ups start at three and the drive from Ubud at that hour is unpleasant. One night on the rim is enough, and it lets you see the caldera at both sunset and sunrise.

Getting there and a plan

Kintamani is 60 to 75 minutes from Ubud and two hours from Kuta, via Tegallalang or Bangli. The road is steep and winding, and the last section through Penelokan is lined with restaurants. A private car and driver for the day is Rp 600,000 to 800,000; a scooter is possible but the climb is hard on a small engine.

A half day covers the viewpoint, the hot springs and lunch. Add the trek for a full experience, or combine the drive with Tegallalang rice terraces and the Tirta Empul water temple on the way back. The afternoon cloud usually arrives by two, so plan the viewpoint for the morning.

• Sunrise trek: leave 03:30, summit by 05:45, back at the car park by 08:30.
• Bring a fleece, a headtorch, grippy shoes and water; the summit is cold and windy.
• Hot springs at Toya Bungkah after the trek; around Rp 50,000.
• The caldera viewpoint is best before 10:00, before the cloud builds.

Questions people actually ask

Is the Mount Batur sunrise trek difficult?

It is a steady two-hour climb on loose volcanic rock, not technical but tiring, especially in the dark. Anyone with reasonable fitness can do it; it is not suitable for small children or people with knee problems.

Do I need a guide for Mount Batur?

Yes. Guides are required by the national park and the village cooperatives, and the trail is unmarked in the dark. Book through your guesthouse and confirm what the price includes.

Can I visit Kintamani without trekking?

Yes. The caldera viewpoint, the hot springs and the lakeside villages fill a half day, and the drive from Ubud is worthwhile on its own. The trek is optional.

Is Kintamani cold?

Yes, especially at night and at sunrise. The rim is around 1,500 metres, and the summit of Batur is colder and windy. Bring a fleece and long trousers even if the coast is 32°C.