Bedugul: the temple on the lake in the hills

The road north from Ubud or Denpasar climbs through rice terraces, then forest, then market gardens, and eventually reaches a plateau where the temperature drops ten degrees and the vegetables are the ones you associate with Europe. This is Bedugul, the agricultural heart of Bali.

People come for one image: Pura Ulun Danu Bratan, a temple on the shore of Lake Bratan whose pagodas seem to float on the water when the lake is still. Around it are a botanical garden, strawberry farms, a fruit and vegetable market, and a lake that supplies much of the island's water. It is a half-day trip that earns its place.

Ulun Danu Bratan: the floating temple

The temple was built in the seventeenth century on the western shore of Lake Bratan, dedicated to Dewi Danu, the goddess of water. It is one of Bali's most important water temples, part of the subak irrigation system that UNESCO recognises as a cultural landscape, and it is still used for ceremonies by the farmers of the surrounding plateau.

The postcard view is from the garden on the northern side, where the eleven-tiered meru and the smaller shrines sit on a promontory. On a still morning the reflection is almost perfect. By ten the tour buses arrive, the wind picks up and the lake loses its mirror; go at opening time if the photograph matters to you.

Lake Bratan and the water temple system

Lake Bratan is a volcanic crater lake, about 23 square kilometres, and it feeds the rivers that irrigate much of southern Bali. The temple is one of a network of water temples that regulate the flow, and the priests still perform the ceremonies that open and close the sluices.

The lake is also a working fishery and a recreation area: pedal boats, a small funfair, and a shoreline path that runs from the temple garden to the botanical garden. It is not wilderness, but the water is clean and the forest around it is real. On a clear day you can see the mountains of East Java across the strait. The local trout farms along the western shore supply the restaurants, and grilled trout is the dish to order at lunch.

The botanical garden and the orchid house

Kebun Raya Bali, the island's botanical garden, sits just east of the temple on the same plateau. It is 150 hectares of forest, bamboo, orchids and a collection of medicinal plants, with a grid of paths that is easy to walk and rarely crowded. The orchid house is the highlight, especially in the wet season.

The garden is also a research station and a bird sanctuary, and the trees hold more birdlife than most of Bali's forests. Allow two hours for a loop, wear long sleeves against the mosquitoes, and take the map from the entrance. The cafe at the gate is basic but the coffee is hot, which at this altitude is the point.

The market, the strawberries and the cold

Pasar Bedugul, at the junction of the Denpasar and Singaraja roads, is a proper highland market: strawberries, carrots, cabbage, chillies, orchids and the enormous roses that grow in the cool air. It is busiest between six and nine, when the trucks load for the coast.

The strawberry farms along the road to Candikuning let you pick your own for around Rp 50,000 a box, depending on the season. The fruit is smaller and more acidic than the imported kind, and it tastes like a strawberry rather than a photograph. Bring a jacket: at 1,200 metres the mornings are cold by Balinese standards, and the rain is colder still. The market closes by mid-afternoon, so do not leave it until the end of the day.

Where to stay, and whether to

Most people visit Bedugul as a day trip, and that is usually right. The hotels on the lake are dated but cheap, Rp 500,000 to 1,200,000, with fireplaces and views of the water. The highlands are quiet at night and cold, and there is very little to do after dark except eat and sleep.

Staying one night makes sense if you want the temple at opening time without a 5 a.m. drive from Ubud, or if you are walking in the forest. Munduk, an hour further north-west, is the better base for waterfalls and trekking, and the road between the two is one of the most beautiful in Bali. Food in Bedugul is simple: warungs around the market, strawberry pancakes at the farms, and hotel restaurants that cater to tour groups.

Getting there and a half-day route

Bedugul is 90 minutes from Ubud, 90 minutes from Seminyak and two hours from Kuta, via the Denpasar–Singaraja road. The drive climbs steadily and the last stretch through the market is slow. A private car and driver for the day is Rp 600,000 to 900,000, and it is the easiest way to combine the temple, the garden and Munduk.

Start early. The classic route is Ulun Danu at opening, the botanical garden at nine, the market at ten-thirty, then lunch at a strawberry farm or a warung on the lake. In the afternoon, continue north to Munduk and the waterfalls, or return via the Jatiluwih rice terraces if you have the time.

• Ulun Danu Bratan at 07:00-08:00 for the reflection and the quiet.
• Botanical garden 09:00-11:00; bring insect repellent and a long-sleeved layer.
• Market at Bedugul before noon; strawberries are cheapest at the farm gate.
• The plateau is cold and wet: jacket, umbrella, shoes with grip.

Questions people actually ask

Is Bedugul worth a day trip from Ubud?

Yes, if you leave early. The temple, the garden and the market fill a half day comfortably, and the drive through the terraces is part of the experience. Combine it with Munduk or Jatiluwih to make a full day.

What is the best time to see Ulun Danu Bratan?

Opening time, around seven in the morning, when the lake is still and the tour buses have not arrived. By ten the wind is up and the reflection is gone.

Do I need warm clothes in Bedugul?

Yes. At 1,200 metres the mornings are around 15°C and the rain is cold. A light jacket or fleece and a rain layer make the difference between a pleasant visit and a miserable one.

Can I visit Bedugul and Tanah Lot in one day?

It is possible but rushed. They are on opposite sides of the island's spine, about an hour apart, and both are best in the early morning or late afternoon. Choose one per day.