Padar Island: the view that sells the whole park

Padar sits in the middle of Komodo National Park, between Komodo and Rinca, and it has no dragons. What it has instead is topography: a narrow island with three deep bays cutting into it, a ridge that runs the length of the spine, and a viewpoint where the water below changes colour from turquoise to navy as the shelf drops away.

The photograph is everywhere, and the reality is a short, steep climb on a dusty trail at five in the morning, with a hundred other people doing the same. It is worth it. The view is bigger than the picture suggests, and the light in the first half hour is the reason photographers get up.

The viewpoint and the climb

The trail starts at the landing beach on the eastern side and climbs a set of wooden steps and dusty switchbacks to the ridge. It takes 20 to 30 minutes at a steady pace, and it is steeper than it looks from the boat. There is no shade, and the heat at eight in the morning is already serious. Take it slowly, and do not be embarrassed to stop; the boats wait, and the view is not going anywhere.

There are three viewpoints along the ridge; the first is the easiest and the view is nearly as good. The highest point gives you the full three bays, with Komodo to the east and Rinca to the south. Stay behind the rope, do not walk on the exposed edges, and bring water — there is none on the island.

The three bays and the colours

The bays are what makes the view. The northern bay is the deepest, with a dark blue channel and a long curve of pale sand. The middle and southern bays are shallower and greener, with reef flats visible under the surface and manta rays sometimes cruising the channels between the islands.

The colour changes through the morning as the sun moves. At sunrise the water is silver and the hills are black; by nine the bays are turquoise and the shadows have gone. The classic photograph is taken from the middle viewpoint at about six-thirty, with the sun behind you and the three bays in a line. In the afternoon the sun is in front of you and the bays lose their colour, which is why almost every boat comes early.

The pink beach and the reef

Padar has a pink beach of its own, on the southern side, a short boat ride from the landing point. The colour comes from red coral fragments mixed with the sand, and it is strongest in the wet season, when the coral is washed down from the reef. It is a good snorkelling spot, with coral gardens and reef fish in a few metres of water.

The currents around Padar can be strong, especially in the channels between the bays, and the dive sites are for experienced divers. Snorkellers should stay near the beach and the boat, and anyone diving should go with a guide who knows the tides. The island has no facilities beyond a toilet at the landing.

When to go, and how it fits into a trip

The best time is sunrise, both for the light and for the temperature. Most day trips from Labuan Bajo reach Padar at six or seven in the morning after a three-hour crossing, which means a 3 a.m. start. The alternative is a liveaboard that anchors overnight, so you climb at first light without the night crossing.

In the dry season, from April to November, the sky is usually clear and the sea calm. July and August are the busiest months, and the viewpoint can be crowded with tripods by six. The wet season brings greener hills, dramatic skies and rough crossings, and some operators stop running day trips in January and February.

Fees, rules and what the park asks

Padar is inside Komodo National Park, so the same permit covers it: a park fee of roughly Rp 500,000 to 750,000 per person, plus the ranger and landing fees collected by the operator. There is no separate ticket for the viewpoint. Fees are set by the park and change from time to time, so confirm the current total when you book.

The park asks visitors to stay on the trail, not to fly drones without permission, and not to remove sand or coral from the pink beach. The island has no accommodation, no shops and no fresh water. Take everything you need and take your rubbish back to the boat.

Getting there and what to bring

Padar is reached from Labuan Bajo by fast boat, about three hours, usually as part of a Komodo day trip or a two-day liveaboard. The crossing passes Rinca and Komodo, and most itineraries combine the Padar climb with a dragon walk and snorkelling at the pink beaches.

Bring shoes with grip for the trail, a headtorch if you are climbing before dawn, two litres of water, a hat and sunscreen. A light jacket is useful on the boat at four in the morning, and a dry bag protects your camera on the crossing. Cameras are allowed on the ridge; drones need a permit.

• Climb at sunrise; the light is best and the trail is coolest.
• The first viewpoint is nearly as good as the summit and much easier.
• No water, no shade, no facilities: carry everything you need.
• Combine Padar with a Komodo dragon walk and a snorkel stop on the same trip.

Questions people actually ask

How hard is the Padar Island hike?

Moderate. The trail climbs about 150 metres on steps and dusty switchbacks and takes 20 to 30 minutes. It is short but hot and exposed, and there is no shade, so start early and carry water.

Can you visit Padar without a tour?

You need a boat and a park permit, so in practice everyone comes on an organised trip from Labuan Bajo. There is no public transport and no accommodation on the island.

Is the pink beach on Padar or Komodo?

Both islands have pink beaches. Padar has one on its southern side, a short boat ride from the landing, with good snorkelling. Komodo has several, and most day trips stop at one of them.

When is the best time to photograph Padar?

Sunrise, from the middle or upper viewpoint, when the sun is behind you and the bays are still in shadow. Mid-morning is also good but the light is harsher and the viewpoint is busier.