Riung: a marine park with no crowd

Riung is a small town on the north coast of Flores, at the end of a road that climbs over the Ngada highlands and drops through dry hills to a bay full of islands. It is the gateway to Taman Wisata Alam 17 Pulau Riung, a marine nature park of seventeen islands with reefs, mangroves and a resident population of flying foxes.

There is no resort strip and no dive industry. The boats are fishing boats, the guesthouses are family-run, and the reef is whatever you find with a mask and a local guide. For travellers who have come this far along Flores, Riung is the reward: a quiet coast with good snorkelling and nobody else in the water.

The 17 islands and how a boat trip works

The islands lie in the bay and along the coast, from Pulau Rutong and Pulau Tiga in the north to Pulau Ontoloe in the south. A day trip by local boat takes in three or four of them, with snorkelling stops and a lunch of grilled fish on a beach. The water between the islands is calm and shallow, which makes it easy for beginners.

Boats can be chartered at the harbour in Riung, and the price depends on the number of stops and the size of the group. Expect Rp 500,000 to 900,000 for a day boat, plus a park fee. Agree the itinerary and the return time before you leave, and take your own mask and fins if you have them; the ones on offer are basic. A full day usually covers three islands, two snorkel stops and a grilled-fish lunch on a beach.

Snorkelling: Rutong, Tiga and the reefs

The best snorkelling is around Pulau Rutong and Pulau Tiga, where the coral gardens start in two or three metres of water and drop to a slope of hard and soft coral. There are turtles, reef fish, giant clams and, in the right season, the occasional reef shark in deeper water.

The reef is not pristine everywhere; some areas show blast-fishing damage from the past, and the park is working to restore them. Do not stand on coral, do not chase turtles, and use reef-safe sunscreen. Visibility is best in the dry season, when it can reach 20 metres, and the water is warm enough for a long snorkel.

Pulau Ontoloe and the flying foxes

Pulau Ontoloe, at the southern end of the park, is the island of the flying foxes. At dusk, thousands of large fruit bats leave the mangroves and fly across the channel to feed on the mainland, a dark ribbon against the sky that takes half an hour to pass. It is one of the best wildlife spectacles in Flores.

The island is also a nesting site for sea eagles and a stop for migratory birds. Boats time their return so passengers can watch the bats from the water; stay quiet, keep your distance from the mangroves, and do not use a flash. The trip back to Riung in the dark is part of the experience.

The town, the fishing and the food

Riung itself is a working fishing town with a market, a harbour, a mosque and a church. The catch comes in during the morning: tuna, snapper, squid and reef fish, sold on the beach and in the market. The warungs grill whatever is available, and a plate of fish with rice and vegetables costs around Rp 40,000.

There is not much to do on land beyond the market and the harbour, which is the point. The evenings are quiet, the electricity is mostly reliable, and the sky is dark enough for stars. Bring a book, cash and a torch, and do not expect nightlife. The town has a couple of small cafes with wifi, and the harbour is the best place to watch the boats unload in the late afternoon.

Where to stay

Accommodation in Riung is simple: family guesthouses and small hotels at Rp 250,000 to 600,000, with fans or air conditioning, cold water in the cheapest rooms and a few places with a pool. The best are on the edge of town facing the bay, where you can watch the boats come in.

Book ahead in July and August, when domestic tourists arrive at weekends, and check whether the price includes breakfast and a boat trip. There are no ATMs in Riung, so bring enough cash from Bajawa or Ende, and expect the internet to be slow.

Getting there and a two-day plan

Riung is two to two and a half hours from Bajawa on a rough but scenic road, and five to six hours from Ende. The road crosses the Ngada highlands and descends through dry country to the coast. A car and driver from Bajawa costs around Rp 700,000 to 900,000, and most people come as part of a Flores overland trip.

Two nights is the minimum: one full day on the boat, one for the bats and the town. Three nights lets you do two boat trips and see a different set of islands. The best months are April to November; in the wet season the sea can be rough and the boats stay in.

• Day 1: boat trip to Rutong and Tiga, snorkelling and lunch on the beach.
• Day 2: Ontoloe for the flying foxes at dusk, then back to Riung.
• Bring your own mask and fins if you can; rental gear is basic.
• No ATMs, slow internet, cash only: plan accordingly.

Questions people actually ask

Is Riung worth visiting?

Yes, if you are travelling overland through Flores and want a quiet coast with good snorkelling. It is not a resort destination and the infrastructure is basic, but the marine park is beautiful and almost empty.

How do I get to Riung?

By road from Bajawa (2-2.5 hours) or Ende (5-6 hours), usually with a car and driver as part of a Flores trip. There is no airport; the nearest is at Bajawa.

Can you snorkel in Riung?

Yes, and it is the main reason to come. The reefs around Rutong and Tiga have coral, turtles and reef fish in shallow water. Bring your own gear if you can, and use reef-safe sunscreen.

When can you see the flying foxes?

At dusk, on Pulau Ontoloe, year-round but best on dry-season evenings when the sky is clear. Boats leave Riung in the afternoon and return after dark.