Sekotong: the islands Lombok keeps quiet

Sekotong is the south-western peninsula of Lombok, a series of bays and headlands that faces a scatter of small islands: Gili Gede, Gili Layar, Gili Asahan, Gili Nanggu and a dozen others. It is about an hour from the airport and a world away from Senggigi.

The area has no strip, no nightlife and very few hotels. What it has is calm water, coral reefs, pearl farms, fishing villages and sunsets over Bali. It is the kind of place where the boatman knows your name by the second day, and where the main decision is which island to snorkel.

The islands and the geography

The Sekotong coast is a series of deep bays, with the road running along the shore and the islands a short boat ride away. Gili Gede is the largest, with a village, a jetty and a few guesthouses. Gili Layar and Gili Asahan are smaller and quieter, with beaches and reef. Gili Nanggu has a small resort and a turtle conservation project.

The water between the islands is shallow and sheltered, which makes it good for beginners and for families. The reefs are fringing, so you can snorkel from the beach on most of the islands. Visibility is best in the dry season, when it can reach 20 metres, and the water is warm enough to stay in for an hour. At low tide some of the channels between the islands become sand flats, which is worth knowing before you plan a crossing on foot.

Snorkelling and diving the secret Gilis

The diving here is known locally as the secret Gilis: less crowded than the north, with healthy coral, turtles, reef sharks and a good chance of seeing cuttlefish and octopus. There are sites for all levels, from shallow gardens to deeper walls, and the dive shops are small and personal.

Snorkelling is the main activity, and it is excellent: Gili Layar and Gili Asahan have coral gardens in a few metres of water, with turtles and abundant reef fish. Boats can be chartered for the day from the mainland or from Gili Gede, and most guesthouses will arrange a snorkel trip with a local fisherman.

Pearl farms and fishing villages

Sekotong is one of Indonesia's pearl-farming areas, and the bays are full of floating platforms where oysters are cultivated for South Sea pearls. The farms are working operations, not attractions, but some will show visitors the process if asked in advance, and the pearls are sold in Mataram and Bali.

The villages are fishing communities, with boats, nets and drying fish. The daily rhythm is the tide and the catch, and tourism has not changed it much. Respect the village, ask before photographing, and buy fish from the market if you are self-catering. The catch is landed in the morning, so the market is over by ten and the boats are back out by four.

The mainland coast and the road from Lembar

The mainland side of Sekotong is a working coast of fishing villages, salt pans and small harbours, with the road running close to the water for most of its length. Lembar, the ferry port for Bali, sits at the northern end, and the drive south from there passes through dry hills, coconut palms and maize fields that look more like Sumba than Bali.

Along the way are the boat jetties at Tembowong and Pelangan, a few warungs serving grilled fish, and the turn-offs to Elak and Mekaki on the south coast, where the surf breaks on a long empty shore. There is no public transport to speak of, so a car and driver — or a scooter, if you are confident on the hills — is the practical way to explore.

Beyond Sekotong the coast turns wilder. Mekaki and Bangko-Bangko are surf beaches backed by savanna, with no hotels and almost no shade, and the waves are for experienced surfers only. The road is rough, the phone signal is patchy, and the reward is a coastline that feels like the edge of the map.

Where to stay

Accommodation is limited and mostly small: beach bungalows on Gili Gede from Rp 400,000, eco-resorts on Gili Asahan at Rp 800,000 to 2,000,000, and a handful of homestays on the mainland. The style is simple, the service is personal and the electricity can be intermittent. Most places have a handful of rooms, so the atmosphere depends entirely on who else is staying.

Book ahead in July and August, when the dive crowd arrives. Check whether the price includes meals and transfers; on the islands, everything comes by boat, so a package is often better value than paying separately. Bring cash, as there are no ATMs on the islands.

Getting there and a three-day plan

Sekotong is 60 to 75 minutes from Lombok airport and 45 minutes from Mataram, via the coast road through Lembar. The boats leave from Tembowong or Pelangan, and the crossing to Gili Gede takes about 15 minutes. Most guesthouses arrange a pick-up and a boat.

Three nights is the minimum, and four is better. Use one day for the northern islands, one for the southern reefs, and one for doing nothing. The sunsets face Bali, the evenings are silent, and the stars are the best on Lombok.

• Day 1: boat to Gili Gede, settle in, snorkel the house reef.
• Day 2: island-hopping to Gili Layar and Gili Asahan.
• Day 3: dive or snorkel the southern sites, sunset over Bali.
• Bring cash, reef-safe sunscreen and a torch; the islands are unlit at night.

Questions people actually ask

Is Sekotong good for snorkelling?

Yes, some of the best shore snorkelling in Lombok. The reefs around Gili Layar and Gili Asahan are shallow and healthy, with turtles and plenty of fish. The water is calm and suitable for beginners.

How do I get to Sekotong from the airport?

About 60 to 75 minutes by car to Tembowong or Pelangan, then a 15-minute boat to Gili Gede. Most guesthouses arrange the transfer and the boat.

Are there ATMs in Sekotong?

There are a few on the mainland, but none on the islands. Bring enough cash for your stay, plus a buffer, and pay for boats and meals in cash.

Is Sekotong better than the Gili islands?

For quiet, reefs and local life, yes. For restaurants, nightlife and easy transport, the northern Gilis are better. Sekotong is for people who want to slow down.