Kumai: where the klotok boats leave for the forest

Kumai is a working river town on the coast of Central Kalimantan, about 20 minutes from Pangkalan Bun. It has a fish market, a row of warehouses, a mosque and a harbour full of wooden boats. Most travellers see it for an hour, on the way to the klotok that will carry them up the Sekonyer river into Tanjung Puting National Park.

That is a shame, because Kumai is interesting in its own right. It is a port for timber, palm oil and fish, and the river is busy with barges, ferries and small boats. The town is also the place where the park's tourism economy is organised: guides, cooks, boat owners and porters all live here, and a good trip depends on choosing the right one.

The port and the town

Kumai sits at the mouth of the Kumai river, where the water turns from blue to brown as it leaves the forest. The harbour handles timber, palm oil, fish and general cargo, and the river is lined with wharves, warehouses and the skeletons of old boats. It is not a pretty waterfront, but it is a busy one, and it explains why the town exists.

The centre is small enough to walk in half an hour. The market is the liveliest part, with fish, fruit, vegetables and the dried shrimp paste that flavours local cooking. There are a few simple restaurants and guesthouses, and the people are used to travellers passing through. If you arrive in the afternoon, you can watch the klotok boats being loaded for the next day's departures.

The klotok

A klotok is a long, shallow wooden boat with a canopy, a small kitchen and a deck that doubles as a dining room and a bed at night. It is the classic way to travel the Sekonyer, and it is slow, hot, noisy and completely absorbing. You sit on a mattress under the awning, drink coffee, and watch the forest slide past at walking pace.

Most trips are two nights and three days, or three nights and four days. The boat carries a captain, a guide and a cook, and the price usually includes meals, permits and the park fees. The boats vary enormously in quality: some have proper toilets and mosquito nets, others are basic. Ask to see photographs, and confirm what is included before you pay.

The Sekonyer river

The Sekonyer is a blackwater river, stained tea-brown by tannins from the peat forest. It runs from the coast into the park, narrowing as it goes, and the vegetation changes from nipa palm and mangrove to dense riverine forest. The water is calm, the current is gentle, and the boat moves slowly enough to see kingfishers, hornbills, monkeys and, if you are lucky, a crocodile on the bank.

The river is also the park's main artery. Ranger posts, camps and villages are all reached by boat, and the klotok is the only practical transport. The trip from Kumai to Camp Leakey takes about four to five hours, with stops. Most itineraries break the journey at Tanjung Harapan or Pondok Tanggui, where the feeding platforms are.

Orangutans and the park

Tanjung Puting is the best-known orangutan reserve in the world, and Kumai is its port. The park has three main stations: Tanjung Harapan, Pondok Tanggui and Camp Leakey, each with a feeding platform where semi-wild orangutans sometimes appear. The animals are not tame, and sightings are never guaranteed, but the park also holds proboscis monkeys, gibbons, macaques, hornbills and a rich bird list.

Camp Leakey, founded in 1971 by Birutė Galdikas, is the historic centre of orangutan research and rehabilitation. The park is not a zoo, and visitors are asked to keep a distance, stay quiet and never feed the animals. The guides are usually excellent, and the ethics of the trip depend heavily on who you go with; ask about their policy on touching and feeding.

Practical: boats, costs, timing

The dry season, May to September, is the best time to visit, with lower water, easier wildlife spotting and fewer mosquitoes. The wet season brings higher water, more rain and fewer visitors, but the forest is lush and the river is fuller. The park can be busy in July and August, so book a boat in advance.

Prices for a klotok trip are usually quoted per boat, not per person, and depend on the length of the trip, the standard of the boat and the number of passengers. A two-night trip for two people is the standard package. Bring cash for tips and extra drinks, a headlamp, insect repellent, a hat and a light rain jacket.

Getting there and a plan

Pangkalan Bun has an airport, Iskandar, with flights from Jakarta, Surabaya and Semarang. The airport is about 20 minutes from Kumai. From Pangkalan Bun, a car or motorbike taxi takes you to the harbour, where the klotok leaves. Some operators pick you up at the airport.

Three days is the minimum for a meaningful trip, and four is better. The classic route is Kumai to Tanjung Harapan on day one, Pondok Tanggui and Camp Leakey on day two, and back to Kumai on day three.

• Day 1: arrive in Pangkalan Bun, transfer to Kumai, board the klotok, cruise to Tanjung Harapan.
• Day 2: Pondok Tanggui feeding platform in the morning, Camp Leakey in the afternoon.
• Day 3: early river trip for birds and monkeys, then back to Kumai and the airport.
• Add a night for a slower pace, a village visit and more time on the river.

Questions people actually ask

Do I need to book a klotok in advance?

Yes, especially in the dry season and on Indonesian holidays. Boats are booked through operators or guesthouses, usually as a package with a guide, cook, permits and park fees. Ask for recent photos of the boat and confirm what is included.

How long is the boat trip to Camp Leakey?

About four to five hours from Kumai, with stops at the feeding stations along the way. Most trips spend the first night at Tanjung Harapan and reach Camp Leakey on the second day.

Will I definitely see orangutans?

No. The orangutans at Tanjung Puting are semi-wild and come and go. Sightings at the feeding platforms are common but not guaranteed. The park also offers proboscis monkeys, gibbons, birds and a beautiful river, so the trip is worthwhile regardless.

What should I bring on a klotok trip?

A headlamp, insect repellent, long sleeves and trousers for the evening, a hat, sunscreen, a rain jacket, cash for tips and a power bank. The boat provides meals and drinking water, but check before you leave.