Maratua: the atoll at the edge of the shelf

Maratua is the largest island in the Derawan group, a narrow atoll shaped like a bent finger, with a shallow lagoon on the inner side and a reef wall on the outer side that drops straight into the Sulawesi Sea. The island has a few thousand residents, most of them Bajau and Bugis, and a handful of resorts and homestays.

Divers know Maratua for its walls and channels: big fish, turtles, reef sharks and the occasional manta. Everyone else knows it for the colour of the water, which shifts from pale turquoise in the lagoon to deep blue at the edge of the reef. It is quieter than Derawan and less developed than Bali, and it is still possible to find a beach with nobody on it.

The shape of the atoll

Maratua is about 25 kilometres long and only a few hundred metres wide in places, curving around a shallow lagoon. The inner shore is sandy and calm; the outer shore is a reef flat that ends in a wall. There are a few small lakes and mangrove creeks in the interior, and the island is covered in coconut palms, casuarina and scrub.

The atoll sits at the edge of the continental shelf, which is why the water outside it is so deep and clear. Currents sweep along the wall, bringing nutrients and fish. The lagoon is shallow, warm and protected, and it is where most of the villages and resorts are.

Diving the wall

Maratua's outer reef is the main reason divers come. The wall starts in a few metres of water and drops away steeply, covered in soft corals, sponges and sea fans. Grey reef sharks patrol the edge, turtles graze on the slope, and schools of fusiliers and barracuda move along the wall. The channel on the western side is the most famous site, with a sandy floor, coral heads and a strong current that brings in big fish.

The diving is suitable for intermediate and advanced divers, though there are gentler sites for beginners. Currents can be strong, and the nearest hyperbaric chamber is far away, so dive conservatively and with an operator who knows the tides. Snorkellers can see plenty on the reef flat and in the lagoon.

Bajau villages and island life

The island's villages are mostly Bajau, a seafaring people who have lived on the coasts of eastern Indonesia and the Philippines for centuries. Houses are built on stilts over the water or just behind the beach, boats are everywhere, and fishing is still the backbone of the economy. Some families still dive with mask and spear, though the practice is changing.

The Bajau are often known as sea nomads, having spent centuries living on boats before settling in stilt villages along reefs across the archipelago. On Maratua, their traditional knowledge of currents, fish behaviour and weather remains unmatched, and many local boatmen and dive guides come from these communities. Their interaction with tourism has grown, but fishing and seaweed farming remain vital to daily life.

Visitors are welcome but should remember that this is a working community, not a resort. Dress modestly, ask before photographing, and do not wander into houses or onto private jetties. The villages have small shops, a mosque and a school, but few other facilities. Alcohol is not part of local life and is only available at some resorts.

Where to stay

Accommodation falls into two categories: a handful of dive resorts with air conditioning, generators and package deals, and simple homestays in the villages. The resorts are concentrated on the western and southern coasts, close to the best dive sites. Homestays are cheaper and more basic, often with fan rooms and shared bathrooms.

Most resorts offer full-board packages that include transfers, meals and diving or snorkelling. Check what is included, because the island is remote and there is nowhere else to eat. If you stay in a homestay, arrange meals with your host and bring cash for the whole stay; there are no ATMs on Maratua.

Getting there

The usual route is to fly to Berau, drive to Tanjung Batu, and take a speedboat to Maratua, which takes about one and a half to two hours from the mainland. Some resorts run their own boats and transfers. There is also a small airstrip on the island with limited flights, mainly from Berau, but schedules are unreliable and the boat is the safer plan.

Once on the island, transport is by motorbike, on foot or by boat. The resorts arrange dive trips and excursions to Kakaban and Sangalaki. The crossing can be rough in the wet season, and boats are sometimes cancelled, so allow a buffer day before your flight out.

Practical and a plan

The dry season, March to October, brings calm seas and clear water. July and August are the busiest, and the resorts fill up. The wet season is quieter and cheaper, but visibility drops and crossings can be uncomfortable. The island is hot year-round, with high humidity and strong sun.

Three days is the minimum for a dive trip, and five is better if you want to combine Maratua with Kakaban, Sangalaki and Derawan. Bring reef-safe sunscreen, a rash guard, a headlamp and cash. There is phone signal in the villages, but it is patchy.

• Day 1: boat from Tanjung Batu, settle in, afternoon snorkel in the lagoon.
• Day 2: two or three dives on the wall and the channel.
• Day 3: Kakaban jellyfish lake and Sangalaki turtles, or a day in the village.
• Add two days for more diving and a trip to Derawan.

Questions people actually ask

How do I get to Maratua?

Fly to Berau, drive to Tanjung Batu, and take a speedboat for about 1.5 to 2 hours. Some resorts include the transfer in their packages. There is a small airstrip on the island, but flights are limited and unreliable.

Is Maratua good for beginner divers?

There are gentler sites in the lagoon and on the reef flat, but the famous wall and channel dives are better suited to intermediate and advanced divers because of the currents. Tell your operator your level and let them choose the sites.

Can I visit Maratua as a day trip from Derawan?

Yes, but it is a long day. The boat takes about 30 to 60 minutes from Derawan, and you will only have time for one or two dives. Staying on Maratua gives you a much better sense of the atoll.

What is there to do besides diving?

Snorkelling in the lagoon, visiting the Bajau villages, walking the island, and day trips to Kakaban's jellyfish lake and Sangalaki's turtle beach. The island is quiet, so bring a book and expect slow evenings.