The Gangga islands: three islands, one strait, few people

The Gangga islands sit in a row off the north coast of Minahasa: Gangga closest to the mainland, Talisei beyond it, and Bangka the largest, running east towards the Lembeh strait. From the beach at Likupang they are a line of green hills on the horizon; from a boat they are quiet villages, coconut plantations and reefs that see very few divers in a season.

There is no ferry and no town. Each island has a handful of guesthouses and small resorts, a church or two, and roads that are more pothole than tar. Getting there means a boat arranged in advance, usually from Likupang or as part of a resort transfer from Manado, and the crossing is short enough to be an outing rather than a journey.

Three islands, three temperaments

Gangga is the smallest and the most visitor-ready, with a couple of long-established dive resorts, a village of a few thousand people and a coastline of small bays. Talisei, a short boat ride north, is quieter again, with a handful of homestays and a reef that drops away steeply on the ocean side. Both are small enough to walk across in an afternoon.

Bangka is the big one, long and hilly, with villages strung along the coast, a road that runs much of its length and diving on both sides. It is also the least developed for tourism, which is its appeal and its difficulty: you need to arrange transport, and the accommodation is limited. All three are worth a day each if you have the time, and a week if you do not.

Crossing the water

Boats leave from Likupang, usually from the beach at Pulisan or a small jetty nearby, and the crossing to Gangga takes under an hour in good weather. Resorts arrange their own transfers, often by speedboat from Manado, which takes an hour and a half to two hours depending on the sea and can be rough between December and March.

There is no public ferry, and schedules are a matter of negotiation rather than timetable. Agree the price and the return time before you get in, and take a number for the boatman. If the wind is up, crossings get cancelled, so build a spare day into your plans. The boats are open or semi-covered, so put your bag in a dry bag and keep your phone where the water cannot reach.

Reefs, walls and muck

Bangka is known for muck diving: black sand, not much coral to speak of, and a cast of small strange animals that photographers travel for. Seahorses, frogfish, octopus, nudibranchs and the occasional creature that the guide has to look up. Gangga and Talisei are more about reef: hard coral gardens in the shallows, walls on the outer edges, turtles and schooling fish in the blue.

Currents can be strong at the corners and the visibility is not always the clear blue of the brochures; plankton-rich water is why the animals are there. Most resorts run two boat dives a day and a night dive, with gear rental and nitrox available. If you are not certified, several places offer a discover-scuba programme in the shallows.

Days on land

Away from the water the islands are quiet in a way that takes a day to adjust to. Villages of wooden houses with tin roofs, clove and nutmeg trees behind them, pigs and chickens on the road, and children who will practise their English on you. The islands are largely Christian, so dress modestly in the villages, keep the noise down on Sunday, and ask before photographing anyone or their drying racks.

Walks along the coast take an hour or two between villages, and on Bangka there is a viewpoint above the main settlement that is worth the climb in the early morning. Kayaks are usually available at the resorts. There is not much else: no nightlife, no shopping and slow internet. Most people read a book and go to bed early, which is the point of coming.

Staying, eating and paying

Accommodation is limited and split between a few dive resorts on Gangga and Bangka and simple homestays in the villages. Resorts mostly sell packages of seven nights with meals and diving included; expect to pay by the night, and expect the rate to include three meals because there is nowhere else to eat. Book ahead in July and August and around Christmas, when the resorts fill with European divers.

Homestays are cheaper, at roughly Rp 200,000 to 350,000 a night, with meals cooked by the family and a shared bathroom. The food is local: fish, rice, vegetables, cassava and the occasional chicken, and it is better than the resorts' international menus. Tell them in advance if you do not eat fish, because here fish is the default. Bring cash in rupiah, because there are no ATMs on the islands and cards are rarely accepted.

• Resort transfers from Manado take 1.5-2 hours; the sea is calmer in the morning.
• Pack a dry bag, reef-safe sunscreen and your own mask and fins.
• No ATMs: bring enough rupiah for the whole stay, including boat fares.
• Sunday is church; keep the noise down and dress modestly in the villages.

Questions people actually ask

How do I get to the Gangga islands from Manado?

Either a resort speedboat transfer, which takes one and a half to two hours, or a drive to Likupang and a short boat from Pulisan. There is no public ferry. Arrange the boat before you travel and keep a spare day for weather delays.

Are the Gangga islands good for beginners?

Yes, for snorkelling and for a discover-scuba course in the shallow bays. Currents at the outer corners are stronger, so go with a guide and follow the briefing. Visibility is variable, but the reefs are shallow and the water is warm.