Palu: the city at the head of the bay

Palu is the capital of Central Sulawesi and one of the most dramatically sited cities in Indonesia. It sits at the head of a long, narrow bay, with steep hills behind and water in front, so the whole place is arranged in a line: river mouth, market, government offices, port, coast road north.

It is also a city that has been through a great deal. The earthquake of 28 September 2018 changed the shape of parts of Palu and the lives of everyone in it. Travellers still come, and should, because a city that is rebuilding is not a city without interest, and because Palu is the practical base for some of the best country in Sulawesi.

A city shaped by its bay

Palu Bay is a long slot of water running north from the city, and the city itself curls around the southern end of it. The Palu river comes down from the hills and meets the sea at the middle of town, which is why the older neighbourhoods cluster there and why flooding is an old story here.

Navigation is easy once you understand that most of life happens along two axes: the bay road, and the streets running inland towards the hills. The airport is a short drive from the centre, the port at Pantoloan is up the coast, and the bus terminals for the south and the interior sit on the edge of town.

The heat is the thing to plan around. Mornings and late afternoons are pleasant, the middle of the day is not, and the hills hold the humidity in. Do errands early, take a long lunch, and save the hours after four for the water. Nobody hurries here at noon, and there is no reason you should.

28 September 2018

On the evening of 28 September 2018, a magnitude 7.5 earthquake ruptured the Palu-Koro fault just north of the city. The shaking caused liquefaction in Petobo and Balaroa, where wet ground behaved like liquid and took houses with it, and it sent waves into the bay. Roads, bridges and water pipes were destroyed.

The city has rebuilt a great deal since, and daily life in the centre looks ordinary again. What remains visible is the ground itself: open land where neighbourhoods stood, new roads, and markers where people have chosen to remember. Visitors should treat those places as they would any memorial, with quiet and without cameras held high.

The museum and the megaliths

Museum Sulawesi Tengah is the best introduction to the region and an easy hour out of the heat. Its collection covers the classic stonework of Central Sulawesi, including the carved stone vessels known as batu dakon, along with ceramics, textiles, and material on the indigenous groups of the interior.

The stones matter because they point south and west, to the valleys around Bada and Besoa, where megaliths stand in rice fields and gardens with no agreed explanation. Reaching those valleys is a rough, slow trip from Palu, but the museum is where the pieces make sense before you decide whether to go.

Along the bay road

The coast road north towards Pantoloan is the city at its most relaxed: fishing boats pulled up on dark sand, stalls selling grilled fish and corn, and the water changing colour through the day. Talise, on the eastern side of the bay, is the usual place to swim, and the usual place to watch the sun go down.

Food in Palu is worth a day of its own. Kaledo, a sour, rich beef bone soup from the Donggala coast, is the local dish to try, served with rice and a fierce sambal. Fish is grilled simply and cheaply at the stalls along the water; expect to eat well for Rp 40,000 to 80,000 a head.

The bay is also where the city exercises: joggers at dawn, families in the evening, boys diving off the sea wall. Join them rather than watching from a car. If you want a longer walk, follow the shore north until the road bends away from the water, then turn back before the port traffic.

• Morning: the bay road north, coffee and a view, then back through the market.
• Midday: Museum Sulawesi Tengah, out of the heat for an hour or two.
• Late afternoon: Talise for a swim and the sunset over the bay.
• Evening: kaledo or grilled fish at a roadside warung, not a hotel restaurant.

Gateway to Lore Lindu and the Togeans

Palu is where trips into the interior begin. Lore Lindu National Park lies south of the city, reached by road through Kamarora, and offers mossy montane forest, megaliths and some of the island's quieter trails. The drive is a half day, and the last part is slow.

The Togean islands are the other direction, in practice: a long road east to Ampana, then a ferry or a fast boat out to the islands. It is a full day of travel on a good day. Flights from Palu connect to Jakarta and Makassar, and the schedules change, so check them close to your dates rather than months ahead.

Questions people actually ask

Is it appropriate to visit Palu after the 2018 earthquake?

Yes. The city has rebuilt and visitors are welcome. Treat the areas affected by liquefaction as memorial ground: quiet, respectful, and no intrusive photography.

How long do I need in Palu?

Two nights covers the museum, the bay road and a good meal. Add a night if you are arranging transport south to Lore Lindu or east towards Ampana and the Togean islands.