Sangihe: where the ferries turn around

Sangihe is the northern edge of Indonesia: a chain of volcanic islands in the Celebes Sea running towards the Philippines, with Tahuna as its capital and Gunung Awu smoking quietly above it. It is part of North Sulawesi and culturally a world away from Manado, with its own languages, its own churches and a long history of nutmeg and fishing.

Few travellers come here, and the ones who do tend to be divers, birders or people who like ferries. The rewards are real: empty reefs, villages where a foreign visitor is still an event, and volcanic scenery that gets more dramatic the further north you go. The costs are time, unreliable transport and very little tourist infrastructure, which is either the point or a deal-breaker.

Where it is, and how far it feels

The archipelago runs about 200 km north from the tip of Minahasa, and the main island, also called Sangihe, is roughly 40 km long. Beyond it lie Siau, Tagulandang and the Talaud islands, which stretch almost to Mindanao. The maritime border with the Philippines is close enough that fishing boats cross it, legally and otherwise, and the coastguard keeps a presence in the harbour.

The distance shows in small ways: the light, the accent, the food, the fact that the ferry timetable depends on the weather rather than the clock. Manado is an hour away by air and a night away by sea, but the cultural distance feels larger than either. This is not a place to come for a weekend, or without a willingness to change plans.

Tahuna, the harbour and the nutmeg trade

Tahuna sits on a narrow shelf between the hills and the bay, with the market, the harbour and the main street all within a few hundred metres of each other. The fish market starts before dawn; the produce market sells nutmeg, cloves, copra and the small hard bananas that grow everywhere in the islands. In the evening the harbour fills with boats and the smell of grilling fish.

Nutmeg was the reason outside powers took an interest in these islands, and it is still a cash crop: you will see the fruit drying on mats outside houses, split open to show the red mace inside. Prices are set by traders and middlemen, and the trade is modest now. Ask before photographing anyone's drying racks; it is their income, not a display put on for visitors.

Gunung Awu and the volcanic spine

Gunung Awu rises to about 1,320 metres behind the northern part of the island and is one of Indonesia's more dangerous volcanoes, with a history of eruptions that have caused serious losses, including a devastating lahar in 1966. It is closely monitored, and access is controlled. When the alert level is up, you do not go, whatever your guide says or however clear the sky looks.

When it is quiet, hikes towards the crater rim can be arranged with a local guide, usually starting early from a village on the slopes. It is a steep, humid climb through forest and then ash, and the reward is a view over the whole archipelago. Check the current status with the observatory in Tahuna or ask at your guesthouse before planning anything, and take the answer seriously.

Under the water, and out to Siau

Diving here is for people who like the unknown. Fringing reefs, walls, black sand and hot springs, with very few boats and no crowd at any site. The water is warm, the visibility varies with the season, and the reefs are in good condition, with plenty of fish and healthy coral on the shallower sites. Bring your own gear if you are particular, because rental is limited.

Siau, a short boat ride north, has its own volcano, Karangetang, one of the most active in Indonesia, and a coastline of black sand and cliffs. Tagulandang sits between the two. Boats between the islands are irregular; ask at the harbour in Tahuna the day before, and be prepared to wait or to change plans. The crossings are short, but the boats are small and the afternoon wind makes them wet.

Getting there, and getting around

The usual route is a flight from Manado to Naha airport, south of Tahuna, which takes under an hour when the schedule holds. Flights are limited and often cancelled for weather, so allow a buffer at both ends. The alternative is the Pelni ferry, which is cheaper, slower and considerably more of an experience, with cabins, a canteen and a great deal of time on deck.

On the island, bemo and ojek cover short distances, and the main road runs north and south; a hired motorbike is the usual way to explore if you are confident on steep, patchy roads. Accommodation is simple: a few hotels in Tahuna at Rp 300,000 to 600,000, and guesthouses in the villages. Cash only, so bring enough, because ATMs are scarce and unreliable.

• Flights to Naha are small and weather-dependent; keep a spare day either side.
• The Pelni ferry is cheaper and slower, with cabins worth the extra.
• Check the Gunung Awu alert level before planning any hike.
• Bring cash and a basic medical kit; ATMs and clinics are scarce.

Questions people actually ask

How long does it take to get to Sangihe from Manado?

About an hour by plane to Naha airport, or an overnight Pelni ferry. Flights are limited and weather-dependent, so keep a spare day either side. The ferry is slower but dependable in the sense that it runs when the sea allows, not when a timetable says.

Is Sangihe safe to visit with an active volcano?

The island is inhabited and monitored, and the advice is to check the current alert level before travelling and to follow it. Do not climb Gunung Awu when the level is raised, and ask locally about conditions before any hike. Tahuna and the main roads are far from the crater.