Southeast Sulawesi: Wakatobi and the Tukang Besi islands

Southeast Sulawesi stretches from the mountainous mainland around Kendari to the Tukang Besi islands in the southeast, which form the Wakatobi National Park. The province is drier than the rest of Sulawesi, with savannah, teak plantations and a coastline of bays and reefs.

Wakatobi is the main reason to come. The park covers 1.39 million hectares and is one of the most biodiverse marine areas in the world, with more than 900 species of fish and hundreds of coral species. The islands are also home to the Bajau and Butonese communities, whose cultures are tied to the sea.

Where Southeast Sulawesi fits in a trip

Southeast Sulawesi is off the main Sulawesi circuit, and reaching Wakatobi takes a flight to Kendari and then another flight or a long ferry. That distance keeps the islands quiet, but it also means the trip needs at least a week to be worthwhile.

The province can be combined with South Sulawesi via the coastal road and ferry, or with Central Sulawesi via the interior. Most visitors fly into Kendari, spend a night, then continue to Wakatobi or to the Buton islands.

Beyond Wakatobi, the mainland has caves, waterfalls and a surprising amount of savannah, while Buton has forts, a sultanate and a tradition of asphalt mining. These are secondary attractions, but they reward travellers with extra time.

Wakatobi: the islands and the reef

Wakatobi is an acronym for the four main islands: Wangi-Wangi, Kaledupa, Tomia and Binongko. Each has a different character. Wangi-Wangi is the administrative centre and the entry point, with a market, a fort and a growing number of guesthouses. Kaledupa is quieter, with mangrove and seagrass. Tomia has the best-known dive sites, and Binongko is the most remote.

The reef is the attraction. Walls, slopes and coral gardens drop into deep water, with excellent visibility and a huge diversity of fish. Sites such as Roma, Hoga and Blade are known among divers, and snorkellers can see plenty from the beaches at Hoga and Tomia. The park is jointly managed with communities, and fees support patrols.

Accommodation ranges from simple homestays to a handful of dive resorts, mostly on Wangi-Wangi and Hoga. Transport between islands is by boat, and schedules depend on the weather and the market days. The region is remote, so plan for delays.

Kendari and the mainland

Kendari is the provincial capital, a low-rise city on a bay with a university, a port and a growing food scene. The waterfront promenade and the nearby islands of Bokori and Hari make easy day trips. The city is also the transport hub for the province, with the airport and ferries to the islands.

Inland, the landscape is a surprise: savannah grasses, teak forests and limestone hills, quite different from the rainforest image of Sulawesi. The Moramo waterfall, about an hour from Kendari, tumbles over a series of terraces and is a popular weekend excursion.

The mainland coast has beaches at Nambo and Toronipa, and the islands off Kendari offer snorkelling and seafood. None of this is world-class, but it is pleasant and uncrowded, and it gives a sense of the province beyond Wakatobi.

• Kendari (KDI): airport, ferries, mainland base
• Wangi-Wangi: Wakatobi gateway, market, fort
• Tomia: best dive sites, beaches, guesthouses
• Bau-Bau: Buton island, fort, ferry port

Buton, Bau-Bau and the south

Buton is the large island south of the mainland, reached by ferry from Kendari or by flight to Bau-Bau. The island has a sultanate with a long history, and the fort of Wolio in Bau-Bau is one of the largest in Indonesia, with walls that follow the ridge above the town.

Buton is also known for asphalt, which has been mined on the island for centuries and used in roads across the region. The mining landscape is not scenic, but it explains the island's economy and its connections to the wider world.

Further south, the islands of Muna and Kabaena have beaches, caves and traditional weaving. These are places for travellers who have time and a willingness to use local transport. Facilities are limited, and English is rare.

Getting there and when to go

Haluoleo airport (KDI) serves Kendari with flights from Jakarta, Makassar, Surabaya and Denpasar. Wakatobi has a small airport on Wangi-Wangi (WNI) with flights from Kendari and Makassar, but services are limited and weather-dependent.

The best months are April to October, when the seas are calm and visibility is at its best. The wet season, from November to March, brings rain and rougher crossings. Some dive resorts close in January and February.

Temperatures are hot year-round, with highs around 32 °C. The mainland is drier than the rest of Sulawesi, and the islands can be windy. Bring reef-safe sunscreen, a hat and a light rain jacket for the crossings.

Costs, beds and local etiquette

Kendari has hotels from IDR 250,000 to IDR 900,000. Wakatobi has homestays from IDR 250,000 and dive resorts that charge by the package, often including meals and diving. Bau-Bau has simple hotels and guesthouses.

The province is predominantly Muslim, with Christian communities in some areas. Dress modestly, especially in Bau-Bau and the villages, and ask before entering mosques or forts during ceremonies. Alcohol is limited, and public drinking is not appropriate.

Cash is essential on the islands. ATMs exist in Kendari and Bau-Bau but are scarce on Wakatobi, and cards are rarely accepted. Bring enough rupiah for your whole stay, plus a torch and a power bank. Tipping is not expected, but dive guides and boat crews appreciate a modest tip.

Questions people actually ask

How do I get to Wakatobi?

Fly to Kendari, then take a flight to Wangi-Wangi or a ferry from Kendari or Bau-Bau. Services are limited and weather-dependent, so allow extra days.

Is Wakatobi good for snorkelling?

Yes. Hoga and Tomia have reefs close to shore, and many guesthouses arrange snorkelling trips. Divers see more, but snorkellers are not short of coral and fish.

When is the best time to dive Wakatobi?

April to October offers the calmest seas and best visibility. November to March is wetter and windier, and some resorts close in January and February.

Can I visit Buton from Kendari?

Yes. Ferries run from Kendari to Bau-Bau, and flights are available. The fort at Wolio and the old town are worth a day, and the island is a good stop on the way to Wakatobi.