East Nusa Tenggara: dragons, coloured lakes and the empty south

East Nusa Tenggara stretches across the Lesser Sunda islands from Komodo to Timor, and it is the poorest and driest province in Indonesia. That combination has kept it out of the mass market and preserved a set of landscapes and cultures that are unlike anywhere else in the country: the savanna of Komodo, the volcanic highlands of Flores, the stone tombs of Sumba and the coral reefs of Alor.

The entry point for most visitors is Labuan Bajo, a fishing town on the western tip of Flores that has become the gateway to Komodo National Park. The rest of the province is reached by a combination of short flights, long bus rides and ferries, and it rewards the time it takes. Seven days is the minimum for Komodo plus one other island. Two weeks is better.

Labuan Bajo and Komodo

Labuan Bajo is a small town built around a harbour, with a main street of dive shops, tour agencies and seafood restaurants. It is the base for every Komodo trip, and it has grown quickly: the airport now receives direct flights from Bali and Jakarta, and the waterfront is lined with hotels that were not there ten years ago.

Komodo National Park covers Komodo, Rinca, Padar and a scatter of smaller islands. The dragons are the draw, and they are best seen on Komodo or Rinca with a ranger, on a short or medium trek. The rangers carry sticks and know where the animals are; the dragons are genuinely dangerous, and the rules about staying with the guide are not optional.

The park is also one of the best diving destinations in Indonesia. The currents in the strait bring nutrients, the reefs are healthy, and the sites at Batu Bolong, Crystal Rock and Manta Point deliver sharks, turtles, napoleon wrasse and, at the right season, manta rays. A liveaboard is the best way to dive multiple sites, but day trips from Labuan Bajo cover the highlights.

Flores: Bajawa, Wae Rebo and Riung

Flores is a long, volcanic island with a chain of mountains down its spine and a road that winds along the coast and over the passes. The highlands around Bajawa are the cultural heart: traditional villages of thatched houses around a central stone platform, coffee plantations, and the volcanic lakes at Bena and Wogo.

Wae Rebo is the most famous village, a cluster of seven conical houses on a ridge at 1,100 metres, reached by a three-hour trek from Denge. It is a genuine community, not a reconstruction, and staying overnight in one of the houses is possible with an invitation and a donation. The walk is steep and muddy, and the reward is one of the most distinctive places in Indonesia.

On the north coast, Riung is the departure point for the 17 Islands marine park, a cluster of small islands with mangroves, reefs and a large colony of flying foxes. The boat trip is inexpensive, the snorkelling is good, and the crowds are nonexistent.

Kelimutu and Ende

Kelimutu is a volcano near the town of Moni with three crater lakes that sit side by side and change colour independently, from turquoise to green to dark red, depending on the minerals and the gases dissolving in the water. The local Lio people believe the lakes are the resting places of the dead, and the site is sacred as well as spectacular.

The standard visit is a 4am drive from Moni to the car park and a 30-minute climb to the rim for sunrise. The lakes are often clear in the early morning and clouded by mid-morning. Bring warm clothes: it is cold at 1,600 metres before dawn.

Ende, the nearest town with an airport, is also the place where Soekarno was exiled by the Dutch in 1934, and the house is now a small museum. The black-sand beaches along the south coast are dramatic and almost empty.

Sumba

Sumba is the island that tourism forgot, a dry savanna landscape of rolling hills, rice fields and stone tombs, with a culture built around clan, ancestor worship and the horse. The Pasola festival, held in February and March, is a ritual battle on horseback that draws visitors from across Indonesia, and the graves and traditional villages around Waikabubak and Ratenggaro are extraordinary.

The west of the island has the best-known beaches and the new resorts around Nihi, while the east is wilder and more traditional. The roads are rough, distances are long, and the infrastructure is minimal. This is a place to travel slowly with a driver.

Sumba is also one of the poorest islands in Indonesia, and the contrast between the resorts and the villages is stark. Travel with a local guide, buy from local businesses, and ask before photographing people or ceremonies.

Alor and the far east

Alor, at the eastern end of the province, has some of the best diving in Indonesia and almost no divers. The strait between Alor and Pantar is a migration corridor for whales and dolphins, the coral is pristine, and the villages in the highlands have a weaving tradition and a language diversity that is remarkable even by Indonesian standards.

Reaching Alor requires a flight to Kalabahi from Kupang, or a long ferry ride. Accommodation is simple, dive operators are few, and the reward is reefs that have not been damaged by mass tourism. The season runs from roughly April to November.

Kupang, the provincial capital on Timor, is the transit hub rather than a destination. The surrounding countryside has hot springs, traditional weaving and the unusual round houses of the Boti community.

What it costs, and when to go

East Nusa Tenggara is cheap, but the transport adds up. A guesthouse in Labuan Bajo costs IDR 400,000 to 900,000, and a dive resort IDR 1,500,000 and up. A Komodo day trip is IDR 700,000 to 1,500,000 per person including park fees, and a two-day liveaboard IDR 2,500,000 to 5,000,000.

Flights are the main expense: Bali to Labuan Bajo or Kupang is often IDR 1,000,000 to 2,000,000 return. Buses and ferries are cheap and slow. Bring cash: ATMs exist in Labuan Bajo, Ende, Maumere and Kupang, and are unreliable elsewhere.

The dry season runs roughly April to October, and that is when the roads, the seas and the diving are at their best. The wet season brings landslides, cancelled boats and closed trails. Komodo is busiest in July and August, when liveaboards and day trips book out weeks ahead.

• Days 1 to 3: Labuan Bajo — Komodo and Rinca, Padar, snorkelling at Manta Point.
• Days 4 and 5: fly to Ende, drive to Moni for Kelimutu at sunrise, then to Bajawa.
• Day 6: the Wae Rebo trek, overnight in the village.
• Days 7 to 9: fly to Sumba or Kupang, or continue to Alor for diving.

Questions people actually ask

How do I see the Komodo dragons?

Fly to Labuan Bajo, then take a day trip or liveaboard to Komodo or Rinca island. A ranger must accompany you on the trails. Book in advance in July and August, when boats and permits sell out.

Is Komodo expensive?

The park fees and boat costs add up, but it is not luxury pricing. A shared day trip is IDR 700,000 to 1,500,000 per person, and a two-day liveaboard starts around IDR 2,500,000. Private boats cost considerably more.

How long do I need in Flores?

At least five days to combine Labuan Bajo, Bajawa and Kelimutu. Ten days lets you add Wae Rebo, Riung and the south coast without rushing. The roads are slow, so distances take longer than the map suggests.

Can I visit Sumba independently?

Yes, but a driver is essential. Roads are rough, public transport is limited, and the cultural sites are spread across the island. Arrange a guide in Waikabubak or Waingapu and be respectful at ceremonies.