West Nusa Tenggara: Lombok, Rinjani and the road east

West Nusa Tenggara is two large islands and a few hundred small ones, with a culture and language distinct from Bali next door. Lombok is the busy half: a green volcanic island with the Rinjani massif in the north, a surf coast in the south and the three Gili islands off the northwest shore. Sumbawa, to the east, is larger, drier, emptier and almost unknown to foreign travellers.

The province was hit by a series of earthquakes in 2018 that killed hundreds of people and destroyed homes across Lombok and the Gilis. The tourist areas have largely rebuilt, and the recovery is a reason to visit rather than avoid: the money goes further and the welcome is genuine. What has not changed is the landscape, which remains the best combination of beach and volcano in Indonesia.

Lombok: Mataram, Senggigi and the Gilis

Mataram is the provincial capital and the airport is close by, which makes the city a practical base for a night rather than a destination. Senggigi, 20 minutes north, is the old resort strip: a long beach, a few hotels and a view across the strait to Bali. It is quiet, slightly faded and pleasant.

The Gili islands, Gili Trawangan, Gili Meno and Gili Air, are the reason many people come. They are 20 to 40 minutes by fast boat from Bangsal, and they have no cars: transport is by bicycle and horse cart. Trawangan is the party island, Meno is the quietest and Air is the middle ground with the best balance of restaurants and space.

The snorkelling is good, especially around the turtle points and the underwater statues off Meno. Diving is cheap and the reefs are recovering. The islands are small enough to walk around in a couple of hours.

Kuta Lombok and the south coast

Kuta Lombok is not Kuta in Bali. It is a small town of surf shops and guesthouses behind a series of white-sand bays, with a dry, rocky hinterland and almost no high-rise development. The beaches at Tanjung Aan, Mawun, Selong Belanak and Mawi are among the best in Indonesia, and each has a different character: Awan for swimming, Selong Belanak for learning to surf, Mawi for advanced surf and a dramatic cove.

The surf around Kuta is world-class and much less crowded than Bali. The breaks at Desert Point, on the west coast, are legendary among experienced surfers, and the season runs from roughly April to October.

The south coast is also where the 2018 earthquake did the most damage, and some villages are still rebuilding. Tourism is the main source of income, and the town is small enough that your money matters.

Rinjani: the climb

Gunung Rinjani rises to 3,726 metres and is the second-highest volcano in Indonesia. The standard route starts at Sembalun, climbs through grassland and pine to a crater rim camp at 2,600 metres, descends to the crater lake and the hot springs, and then either climbs to the summit before dawn or exits via Senaru through the rainforest.

The full trek takes three days and two nights, and the summit push is a 2am start on loose volcanic scree that takes three to four hours. The view from the top, with the crater lake below and Bali and Sumbawa on the horizon, is one of the best in Indonesia. It is also genuinely hard: altitude, cold, steep ground and a lot of exposure.

Guides and porters are mandatory and can be arranged in Senaru or Sembalun. Prices vary widely, and the cheapest operators cut corners on food, equipment and waste. Pay for a reputable company, bring warm layers and a headtorch, and do not climb in the wet season, when the trail is closed or dangerously slippery.

Sumbawa: Lakey, Moyo and Tambora

Sumbawa is a five- to seven-hour drive east of Mataram, including a short ferry crossing, and it feels like another province. The west coast around Lakey Peak is a world-class surf destination with a handful of lodges and a very quiet beach. The wave is a fast, hollow left that breaks on reef and works best from April to October.

Further east, Moyo island is a nature reserve with waterfalls, macaques and a small luxury resort, reachable by boat from Sumbawa Besar. Tambora, the volcano that produced the largest eruption in recorded history in 1815, is a serious two-day climb from the north coast, with a camp in the caldera.

Sumbawa is not set up for tourism. Roads are good in the west and patchy in the east, ATMs are scarce, and English is limited. That is exactly why it is worth the effort.

Sasak culture and food

The Sasak are the indigenous people of Lombok, and most are Muslim, with a small minority practising Wektu Telu, a syncretic form of Islam that incorporates older animist rituals. The traditional villages around Sade and Ende, south of Kuta, have thatched houses and a distinctive architecture, and are worth a visit with a guide who can explain what you are seeing.

The food is different from Balinese and Javanese. Ayam taliwang is grilled chicken with a fierce chilli and shrimp paste marinade, plecing kangkung is water spinach with tomato and chilli, and sate bulayak is served with a sticky rice cake wrapped in palm leaf. The local coffee from Sembalun is excellent.

Alcohol is less available than in Bali, especially outside the Gili islands and the tourist areas. Respect local norms, particularly during Ramadan.

What it costs, and when to go

Lombok is cheaper than Bali for the same standard. A guesthouse in Kuta Lombok costs IDR 300,000 to 700,000, a mid-range hotel IDR 600,000 to 1,200,000, and the Gilis are slightly more. A Rinjani trek with a reputable operator is IDR 2,500,000 to 4,500,000 per person for three days, including equipment and porters.

The dry season runs roughly May to September, which is also the surf season and the best time for Rinjani. The wet season brings heavy rain, closed trails and rough seas for the Gili boats. The shoulder months of April and October are a good compromise.

The ferry from Padang Bai in Bali to Lembar in Lombok takes four to five hours and is much cheaper than flying; fast boats to the Gilis take about two hours from Bali. Flights from Bali and Jakarta are frequent and inexpensive.

• Day 1: arrive in Lombok, transfer to Kuta Lombok, sunset at Tanjung Aan.
• Day 2: the south coast beaches — Mawun, Selong Belanak, Mawi.
• Days 3 and 4: Gili Air or Gili Meno — snorkelling, no cars, slow days.
• Days 5 to 7: Rinjani trek, or the drive east to Lakey Peak and Sumbawa.

Questions people actually ask

Is Lombok better than Bali?

It is quieter, cheaper and more dramatic, with better beaches and a serious volcano. Bali has more restaurants, culture and infrastructure. If you want a beach holiday with a climb, Lombok wins; if you want variety and comfort, Bali does.

How hard is the Rinjani trek?

Hard. Three days of steep walking, a 2am summit push on loose scree, cold nights and basic camps. You need good fitness and proper gear. The crater rim camp alone is worth it if the summit is beyond you.

Are the Gili islands still recovering from the earthquake?

Yes, and they are open. The 2018 earthquakes damaged buildings and infrastructure, but the tourist areas have rebuilt. Some smaller businesses never reopened, so the islands are quieter than they were.

Do I need a guide for Rinjani?

Yes, guides and porters are mandatory and arranged through operators in Senaru or Sembalun. Choose a company that carries out its waste and provides proper tents and food.