Pulau Natuna: the islands at the top of the map

Natuna is the northern edge of Indonesia, a regency of around 270 islands in the South China Sea, closer to Vietnam than to Jakarta. The main island, Bunguran, is where most people live and where the airport is, and its small capital, Ranai, is a quiet town of a few streets and a market.

People come for the wildness: forested hills, empty beaches, reefs, and a monkey called the Natuna surili that exists only here. The journey is not easy and the infrastructure is thin, but that is exactly why the islands still feel like somewhere at the end of the world.

Where Natuna is

The regency covers a huge area of sea, but the inhabited islands are few. Bunguran is the largest, with Ranai on its east coast and a spine of hills running north to south. Sedanau, on the west coast, is the other main settlement, with a harbour and a village that stretches along the shore.

The islands sit on the edge of the South China Sea, which means the weather is driven by the monsoon and the sea can be rough for months at a time. It also means the water is clear, the reefs are healthy and the fishing is exceptional. This is not a place for a beach holiday in the resort sense; it is a place for slow travel and a tolerance for uncertainty.

Ranai and Bunguran

Ranai is small and easy to walk. There is a market, a mosque, a few shops and restaurants, and a harbour where boats leave for the other islands. The town is the base for everything: permits, transport, guides and supplies.

Bunguran is big enough to spend a few days exploring. The roads run along the coast and up into the hills, and a scooter or a hired motorbike is the best way to see it. The beaches on the north and west coasts are the best, and the interior is forest, farmland and small villages.

Supplies are limited. There are shops and a market, but specialised gear, medicines and spares may not be available, and the ferry schedule determines what arrives when. Bring what you need for the activities you have planned, and treat the town as a place to eat and sleep rather than to shop.

Mount Ranai and the forest

Mount Ranai rises to around a thousand metres and is the highest point in the regency. The lower slopes are farmland and secondary forest; higher up, the forest is denser and the air cooler. The climb is a half-day walk, with a guide, and the view from the top takes in the whole island and the sea beyond.

The forest is also the home of the Natuna surili, a leaf monkey with a pale face and a distinctive call that lives only on these islands. It is shy and hard to see, and your best chance is an early morning walk with a guide who knows where the groups move. Do not feed them, and keep your distance.

• Climb Mount Ranai with a local guide.
• Early morning is best for the surili and the birds.
• Do not feed or approach the monkeys.
• The trail is muddy after rain: wear proper shoes.

The beaches and the reefs

The beaches around Bunguran and the smaller islands are the postcard version of Natuna: pale sand, shallow water, palms and no one around. Some are reached by road, others only by boat. The further you go from Ranai, the emptier they get.

The reefs are in good condition, with coral, reef fish and turtles. Snorkelling from the beach is possible in places, but the best sites need a boat. Dive infrastructure is almost nonexistent, so bring your own gear and go with a local who knows the water. Currents can be strong and there is no medical facility for divers.

Fishing is the main industry, and the catch is extraordinary: tuna, grouper, snapper, squid and, in season, much larger pelagics. The harbour at Penagi is the place to watch it come in. If you want to eat well in Natuna, ask at your guesthouse and let them cook what the boats brought back that morning.

Getting there and when to go

Raden Sadjad airport serves Ranai with flights from Batam, and seasonally from Jakarta. The flights are small, infrequent and often full, so book well ahead and confirm your return. The alternative is a long sea journey from Batam or Tanjung Pinang that most visitors avoid.

The calm season runs roughly from March to October, when the sea is flatter and the crossings are easier. The north-east monsoon brings wind and rain from December, and the boats stop running to the outer islands. Whatever the season, allow a buffer day at each end: weather delays are normal here.

Questions people actually ask

How do you get to the Natuna islands?

Fly to Raden Sadjad airport at Ranai on Bunguran, with flights from Batam and seasonally from Jakarta. The aircraft are small and the flights are often full, so book ahead and confirm your return. Boats from Batam and Tanjung Pinang also serve the islands but take much longer.

What is the Natuna surili?

It is a leaf monkey found only in the Natuna islands, with a pale face and a distinctive call. It lives in the forest on Bunguran, including the slopes of Mount Ranai, and is shy. An early morning walk with a local guide is the best chance of seeing one.