Dieng: the oldest temples in Java, above the clouds

Dieng is a high volcanic plateau in Central Java, wrapped around the shoulders of the Sindoro and Sumbing volcanoes. It is one of the coldest inhabited places in Indonesia, with frost on the potato fields in the dry season, and it holds the oldest surviving Hindu temples in Java. The name is usually translated as abode of the gods, and the landscape supports the description.

Most visitors come for the sunrise at Sikunir and the coloured lakes, which are genuinely beautiful. But Dieng is more interesting than its photo spots: a working agricultural plateau with a harsh climate, a long history of Indian-influenced kingdoms, and a living tradition of ritual that includes the famous dreadlocked children. Give it a night, not a day trip.

The plateau and its people

Dieng sits at about 2,000 metres in the regencies of Wonosobo and Banjarnegara. The soil is volcanic and fertile, and the plateau is covered with potatoes, cabbage, carrots and tobacco. The village of Sembungan, on the slope above Telaga Warna, is often described as the highest village in Java. The growing season is short, the nights are cold, and the whole economy is built around vegetables and tourism.

The population is Javanese, with a strong tradition of slametan and local ritual. The plateau is also the setting for one of Indonesia's more unusual cultural events: the annual cutting of the dreadlocks of a small number of children, who are believed to be marked by the spirits of the plateau. It is a religious ceremony, not a performance, and it draws large crowds.

The Arjuna temple complex

The Arjuna complex is a group of five small stone temples standing in a row on a raised platform, built between the eighth and ninth centuries. Arjuna is the largest; the others are named after characters from the Mahabharata, including Semar, Srikandi, Puntadewa and Sembadra. They are the oldest Hindu temples in Java, predating Borobudur and Prambanan, and they were probably part of a larger sacred landscape that included the crater lakes.

The temples are small and austere, with simple pyramidal roofs and carved doorways. What makes them memorable is the setting: mist, potato fields, and the volcano behind. They were restored in the twentieth century and are now a protected site. Go early or late, when the tour buses are gone and the stone is lit by low sun.

Craters and coloured lakes

Dieng is still active. Kawah Sikidang is the most accessible crater, a bubbling grey mud pool with boardwalks and a strong sulphur smell; the name means jumping, after the way the vents move. Kawah Sileri is larger and more dramatic, with a green crater lake and a trail around the rim. Both are easy to reach by road and both require care: the ground is unstable and the gas can be strong.

Telaga Warna and Telaga Pengilon sit side by side above the plateau. Telaga Warna is the famous one, its water shifting from green to turquoise to brown depending on the light and the sulphur content. A path circles the lake and continues to the smaller, quieter Pengilon. This is an easy walk, suitable for families, and best in the morning before the mist burns off.

Sikunir and the sunrise

The sunrise from Bukit Sikunir is Dieng's signature experience. The hill rises to 2,563 metres above the village of Sembungan, and the walk to the top takes 30 to 45 minutes in the dark. At the summit you look east over a sea of cloud, with the cones of Sindoro and Sumbing emerging from it and the sun rising between them. On a clear morning it is one of the best views in Java.

The catch is the crowd. Sikunir is extremely popular, and the path and summit can be packed on weekends and holidays. Go on a weekday if you can, bring a headlamp and a warm jacket, and start early enough to be at the top 30 minutes before sunrise. An alternative is the Batu Pandang viewpoint near Telaga Warna, which is easier and less busy.

The culture festival and the gimbal children

The Dieng Culture Festival, usually held in August or September, centres on the ritual cutting of the gimbal, the matted dreadlocks that grow on a small number of local children. According to local belief, the hair is a gift from the ancestors and must not be cut until the child asks for it; the ceremony is preceded by prayers, offerings and a procession. It is a genuinely local tradition, not a tourist invention.

The festival also includes wayang performances, traditional dance and a lantern release. If you attend, remember that the ritual is the main event and the concerts are secondary. Ask before photographing the children, and follow the guidance of the village elders.

Practical Dieng

Wonosobo is the main gateway, about an hour down the mountain, with buses from Yogyakarta and Semarang. Yogyakarta is roughly three hours away, Semarang about three and a half. Most visitors stay in the villages around the plateau, where homestays are simple and cheap, or in Wonosobo and drive up for sunrise.

The dry season, May to September, brings the clearest skies and the coldest nights, with frost in July and August. The wet season is green and misty, with slippery paths and frequent rain. Bring warm clothes, a rain jacket and shoes with grip. There is no shortage of warungs, but ATMs are limited on the plateau, so bring cash.

• Day 1: Arjuna temples, Sikidang crater and Telaga Warna in the afternoon; sleep on the plateau.
• Day 2: Sikunir sunrise, then Sembungan village and the potato fields; drive down to Wonosobo.
• Add a day for Kawah Sileri, the Serayu river valley or a walk between the lakes.
• Check the festival dates if you want the gimbal ceremony; book accommodation well ahead.

Questions people actually ask

How cold does it get in Dieng?

Night temperatures can drop to near freezing in the dry season, and frost is common in July and August. Bring a warm jacket, trousers and a hat. Homestays usually provide blankets but not heating.

Is the Sikunir hike difficult?

It is short but steep: about 30 to 45 minutes on a rough path in the dark. A basic level of fitness is enough, but bring a headlamp and good shoes. The summit is cold and exposed.

Can I visit the temples and lakes in one day?

Yes. The Arjuna complex, Sikidang and Telaga Warna are close together and can be covered in an afternoon. Sikunir is a separate early-morning trip, so most people stay one night.

When is the Dieng Culture Festival?

Usually in August or September, but the dates follow the local calendar and change each year. The main ritual is the cutting of the gimbal children's hair. Check current dates before booking.