Prambanan: the tallest Hindu temple in Indonesia

Prambanan is the great Hindu counterpart to Borobudur, built about fifty years later on the same plain and dedicated to Brahma, Vishnu and Shiva. Its central temple rises 47 metres, making it the tallest ancient structure in Indonesia, and the complex originally contained more than 200 temples. The stone is dark volcanic rock, which gives the site a harder, more austere beauty than Borobudur's grey andesite.

The temples were abandoned, damaged by earthquakes and rediscovered in the nineteenth century. Restoration continues today, and some of the smaller shrines are still piles of stone. But the main group is complete enough to read as a city of gods, especially at sunset when the spires turn gold and the Ramayana ballet begins in the theatre next door.

The complex

Prambanan is laid out as a mandala, with three main temples in the central courtyard dedicated to Shiva, Brahma and Vishnu. The Shiva temple is the largest and tallest, with a statue of the god inside and a gallery of reliefs around its base. In front of each main temple stands a smaller shrine for its vehicle: Nandi the bull for Shiva, the goose for Brahma, and the eagle Garuda for Vishnu.

The complex was built around 850 CE, probably by Rakai Pikatan of the Sanjaya dynasty, though the dating is debated. It was abandoned not long after, likely because of volcanic activity and the shift of royal power eastward to Majapahit. The site was looted and quarried for centuries before restoration began in the early twentieth century.

The Ramayana reliefs

The Shiva temple's inner gallery carries a continuous series of reliefs telling the Ramayana, the epic of Rama, Sita and the monkey general Hanuman. The panels are read clockwise, and together they form one of the finest narrative cycles in Indonesian art. The figures are elegant and rounded, with detailed costumes and expressive faces, and the story is easy to follow even without a guide.

The most famous local legend attached to the site is that of Loro Jonggrang, a princess who asked a suitor to build a thousand temples in a single night. He nearly succeeded, so she woke the roosters to make him think dawn had come; he turned her to stone in his rage, and she is said to be the statue in the Shiva temple. It is a folktale, not history, but it explains the name of the complex's main shrine.

Sewu and the other temples

Most visitors see the main group and leave, but the plain around Prambanan is dotted with other temples. Sewu, a large Buddhist complex about 800 metres north, is the most impressive: a central temple surrounded by 240 smaller shrines, with fine reliefs and far fewer visitors. The walk between the two sites passes through rice fields and is one of the best short walks in Java.

Nearby are the smaller temples of Lumbung, Bubrah and Asu, and further north the Plaosan complex, which blends Hindu and Buddhist elements. These sites are quieter, cheaper and often more atmospheric than the main Prambanan courtyard, especially in the late afternoon.

The Ramayana ballet

From May to October, the Ramayana ballet is performed in an open-air theatre beside the temples, with the illuminated spires as a backdrop. The performance compresses the epic into a dance drama with gamelan music, elaborate costumes and no dialogue, and it is one of the most accessible introductions to Javanese performance for visitors.

Tickets range from cheap seated benches to VIP chairs, and the show runs about two hours. Book through a hotel or the official box office, and check the schedule, because performances depend on the season and the moon. The indoor theatre is used in the wet season.

Tickets and timing

Prambanan is a ticketed archaeological park, and foreigners pay more than Indonesians. A combined ticket with Borobudur is available and saves money if you plan to see both. The site is open from early morning to late afternoon, and the light is best before nine and after three. Sunset from the temple courtyard is spectacular but the gates close before dark.

The 2006 earthquake damaged several structures and the site has been gradually restored. Some temples may be closed for conservation, and scaffolding is common. Wear comfortable shoes, bring water and a hat, and expect to walk a few kilometres if you include Sewu.

The site museum, near the main entrance, is easy to skip and worth half an hour. It holds some of the original statues and reliefs that have been replaced on the temples with replicas, along with photographs of the restoration and a model of how the complex would have looked in the ninth century. Theft and weathering are constant problems, which is why so much of the carving is now protected indoors.

Practical and a plan

Prambanan is 17 kilometres east of Yogyakarta, on the road to Solo, and is easy to reach by car, taxi or the Trans Jogja bus. The airport is about 15 minutes away. Most people visit as a half-day trip from the city, often combining it with Borobudur in a long day.

The dry season is the best time for the ballet and for walking between the temples. In the wet season, go early and carry rain gear. Allow two hours for the main complex and another hour for Sewu.

• Morning: arrive at opening, see the main temples before the heat and the tour groups.
• Midday: walk to Sewu and the smaller temples, then lunch.
• Late afternoon: return to Prambanan for the low light, then stay for the ballet if it is performing.
• Combine with Borobudur on a separate day; doing both in one day is possible but rushed.

Questions people actually ask

Is Prambanan better than Borobudur?

They are different. Borobudur is larger, older and more complex as a monument; Prambanan is more dramatic in silhouette and has the Ramayana reliefs and the ballet. Most visitors see both, and the combined ticket makes that cheaper.

Can I visit Prambanan and Borobudur in one day?

Yes, but it is a long day with a lot of driving. Prambanan is east of Yogyakarta and Borobudur is northwest, about two hours apart. A private car is the practical way to do both, and you will have limited time at each.

When is the Ramayana ballet performed?

Usually from May to October in the open-air theatre, with indoor performances in the wet season. The schedule varies, so check with the box office or your hotel. Book ahead for full-moon performances.

How much time do I need at Prambanan?

Two hours for the main complex is enough, plus an hour if you walk to Sewu and the smaller temples. Add the evening if you are staying for the ballet.