Solo: the quiet rival to Yogyakarta

Solo is the other royal city of Central Java, and for most travellers it is a footnote to Yogyakarta. That is a mistake. Surakarta, as it is formally known, has two working palaces, a batik industry that supplies much of Indonesia, and a food scene that is more local and less polished than its famous neighbour. It is also cheaper, quieter and easier to walk.

The city sits on the Bengawan Solo river, in the heart of the Javanese heartland. It was the capital of the Mataram Sultanate before that kingdom split in the eighteenth century, and the two courts that emerged from the split still exist. Their rivalry shaped the city's culture, and it still shapes its identity.

Two courts, one city

Solo's history begins with the Mataram Sultanate, which moved its capital here in 1745 after a period of conflict with the Dutch. The new palace, the Keraton Kasunanan, was built at Kartasura and the city grew around it. In 1757 a rival branch of the royal family established the Mangkunegaran, and the two courts have coexisted ever since, each with its own palace, rituals and gamelan traditions.

That division is the key to understanding Solo. The city is not dominated by a single monument or a single narrative. It is a place of two courts, many kampungs and a strong, private culture that visitors see through batik, food and performance rather than through grand tourism.

The move to Solo was itself a product of war. In 1740 the Dutch and their allies attacked the Chinese community in Batavia, and the conflict spread across Java. The Mataram court, already weakened by internal disputes, was drawn into the fighting and eventually moved its capital east to Surakarta in 1745. A rival branch of the royal family broke away in 1757 and founded the Mangkunegaran, and the Dutch used the split to keep both courts weak. That history of division is why Solo has two palaces instead of one.

Keraton Kasunanan

The Keraton Kasunanan is a walled palace complex of pavilions, courtyards and museums, built in the Javanese style with tiered roofs and carved wooden columns. Parts of it are open to visitors, including the museum that displays royal regalia, gamelan sets, weapons and gifts from European courts. The palace is still the residence of the Susuhunan, the senior ruler of Surakarta.

The visit is guided and somewhat formal. Dress modestly, remove your shoes where required, and follow the guide. The palace also hosts traditional performances, including wayang orang and gamelan, especially around the Javanese holidays. Check the schedule at the ticket office.

Mangkunegaran

The Mangkunegaran palace is smaller, younger and in some ways more accessible than the Keraton. Its great pendopo, a vast open pavilion with a carved ceiling, is used for dance rehearsals and concerts, and visitors can often watch the performers practise. The palace museum holds a collection of masks, jewellery, batik and manuscripts.

The Mangkunegaran is also the home of a distinct school of Javanese dance and gamelan, and its performances are more intimate than the tourist shows in Yogyakarta. If you are interested in Javanese culture, this is the place to spend an afternoon.

Batik

Solo is one of the great batik cities of Java, along with Yogyakarta and Pekalongan. The kampung of Laweyan, west of the centre, is full of workshops and showrooms where you can see the waxing, dyeing and drying processes and buy directly from the makers. Kauman, near the mosque, is the older commercial batik district.

The patterns are not just decoration. Parang, kawung, truntum and sidomukti carry meanings and were historically restricted to the courts. Prices vary enormously: a machine-printed cloth costs a few hundred thousand rupiah, while a hand-drawn tulis piece can cost millions. Ask about the process before you buy, and do not be shy about visiting several workshops.

Markets and food

Pasar Klewer is the city's textile market, a multi-storey maze of batik, sarongs and fabric. It is hot, crowded and essential. Nearby, Pasar Triwindu sells antiques, old lamps, coins and furniture, and is a pleasant place to browse even if you buy nothing. The morning market around Pasar Gede is the best place for breakfast.

Solo's food is legendary. Serabi Notosuman, a small rice-flour pancake with a coconut and palm-sugar topping, is the city's signature snack. Wedang ronde, a ginger drink with glutinous rice balls, is served in stalls around the palace. Sate buntel, minced lamb wrapped in fat and grilled, and nasi liwet, rice cooked in coconut milk, are the main dishes. Eat where the locals eat, and expect to pay very little.

Practical and a plan

Solo has an airport, Adi Soemarmo, with domestic flights, and is about an hour from Yogyakarta by train. The train is the easiest way to arrive, and the station is close to the centre. From Solo, the temples of Prambanan and the slopes of Mount Lawu are within day-trip distance.

One day covers the two palaces, Laweyan and the markets. Two days allows time for a batik workshop and a performance. The city is hot and busy, but it is also friendly and cheap, and it lacks the tour-group pressure of Yogyakarta.

• Morning: Keraton Kasunanan and the royal museum, then Pasar Klewer.
• Midday: lunch at a local warung, then the Mangkunegaran palace and dance rehearsal.
• Afternoon: Laweyan batik workshops and Pasar Triwindu.
• Evening: serabi and wedang ronde, then a wayang orang performance if one is on.

Questions people actually ask

Is Solo worth visiting instead of Yogyakarta?

It is worth visiting as well as Yogyakarta, not instead. Solo is quieter, cheaper and more focused on batik and court culture, while Yogyakarta has the bigger monuments and tourist infrastructure. The train between them takes about an hour.

Which palace should I visit in Solo?

Both, if you have time. The Keraton Kasunanan is the senior court and the more formal visit; the Mangkunegaran is smaller, more accessible and often has dance rehearsals. Each takes about an hour.

Can I buy batik directly from the makers?

Yes. Laweyan and Kauman are full of workshops and showrooms, and many welcome visitors. Ask to see the process, compare hand-drawn and stamped pieces, and expect prices to reflect the labour involved.

What is the best food to try in Solo?

Start with serabi Notosuman, then try sate buntel, nasi liwet and wedang ronde. The stalls around Pasar Gede and the palace are the best places to eat, and the prices are low.