Danau Sentani: islands, canoes and bark paintings

Lake Sentani is the reason many people stop in Jayapura at all. It is a large, shallow lake of many arms, with more than twenty islands and a shoreline of villages, gardens and fish traps. The Cyclops Mountains rise along the north side, and the water reflects them in the early morning.

The lake is not a resort. It is a working landscape, fished and farmed by the people who live around it, and the villages on the islands are known for a particular tradition of bark painting that has been collected by museums for more than a century. Visiting is a matter of boats, patience and a guide who knows who is at home.

The shape of the lake

Sentani covers around 9,000 hectares and sits at about 70 metres above sea level, close enough to the coast that the airport was built on its southern shore. Its many arms and islands make it feel larger than it is, and the water level rises and falls with the rains.

The lake is fed by streams from the Cyclops Mountains and drains towards the sea east of Jayapura. Fishing is still done from small canoes, often with lines and traps, and the gardens on the islands grow sweet potato, cassava and greens. It is a landscape that has been managed for a very long time.

Because the lake is shallow, it changes with the rains. In the wet season the water rises and the shoreline disappears into the gardens; in the dry season it pulls back and leaves muddy margins where birds feed. That rhythm matters to the people who live here, and it is worth asking about when you are on the water.

Asei and the bark paintings

Asei is the best known of the island villages, and its reputation rests on bark cloth paintings: sheets of beaten bark, painted with natural pigments in bold, stylised patterns of fish, lizards and spirits. The tradition is old, the designs are specific to families, and the paintings are sold to visitors and to museums.

Visiting needs to be arranged, usually through a guide in Sentani or Jayapura. Ask before photographing people and buy from the artists directly if you can. The village is not a theme park, and the best visits are the ones where somebody is actually working on a painting when you arrive.

The festival

Every June the lake hosts the Festival Danau Sentani, a few days of canoe races, dances, music and food on the water. It is the biggest event in the region and draws visitors from across Papua and Indonesia. If you are in Jayapura in June, it is worth rearranging your plans for.

The festival is also the easiest time to see the lake at its most social: the villages prepare for weeks, boats come from all over the lake, and the shoreline fills with families. Accommodation in Sentani and Jayapura is booked out, so plan well ahead and expect to pay more.

• The festival runs for several days in June.
• Book accommodation in Sentani or Jayapura well in advance.
• Canoe races and dances happen on and beside the water.
• Bring sun protection: there is very little shade on the shore.

Boats, fishing and the shoreline

A boat trip is the best way to see the lake. Motorised canoes can be hired in Sentani town and from the villages, and a half-day loop will take in several islands, a fish trap or two and a village stop. Agree the price and the route before you set off.

The shoreline road runs from Sentani towards the Cyclops foothills and has several viewpoints. The best light is early, before the mountains cloud over. Bring water and something to eat, because the warungs are few and far between once you leave the town.

The lake is also a good place to watch the weather. Storms build over the Cyclops most afternoons, and the water changes from glass to chop in half an hour. If you are going out in a small boat, go in the morning and be back before the clouds gather. The fishermen do the same, and they know the lake better than any forecast.

Getting there and staying

The lake is thirty to forty minutes from central Jayapura and immediately next to Sentani airport, which makes it an easy first or last stop in Papua. Most people stay in Sentani town or in Jayapura and visit for the day.

There are a handful of guesthouses and small hotels around the lake and in Sentani town, and more choice in Jayapura. Do not expect luxury. Expect clean rooms, friendly owners and, if you are lucky, a view of the water from the terrace.

Questions people actually ask

Can you visit the island villages on Lake Sentani?

Yes, but arrange it in advance through a guide in Sentani or Jayapura. Boats can be hired in the town, and village visits usually include Asei, which is known for bark paintings. Ask before taking photographs and buy directly from the artists where you can.

When is the Festival Danau Sentani?

The festival is held in June and runs for several days, with canoe races, dances and food on the lakeshore. It is the busiest week of the year for the lake, so book accommodation in Sentani or Jayapura well ahead and expect higher prices.