Jayapura: a city built up a hillside

Jayapura is not an easy city, but it is a memorable one. It climbs a series of steep ridges above a deep bay, so the streets switch back and the views arrive without warning. The centre is dense and busy, the outer districts are quiet, and the water is never far away.

Most travellers pass through on the way to the Baliem Valley or Lake Sentani. That is understandable, but a day in the city is worth having: the market at Hamadi, the old harbour, the war memorials, and a plate of papeda with fish. It is also the place to sort out permits and flights before heading inland.

A city with two histories

The bay was a Dutch colonial post, then a Japanese base, then the headquarters of MacArthur's South West Pacific command during the Second World War. Hollandia, as it was called, was one of the largest Allied bases in the Pacific, and the roads and the airstrip were built for that war rather than for the city that followed.

After Indonesian independence the town became Sukarnopura, then Jayapura, and it grew fast as the administrative centre of Papua. That layered history is still visible: Dutch-era buildings near the port, war relics in the hills, and a modern city of offices and markets around them.

The bay, the hills and the views

The best thing to do in Jayapura is to look at it. The ridge roads above the centre give you the whole bay, the islands at its mouth and the hills behind. Go up in the late afternoon, when the light softens and the fishing boats come in, and stay for the sunset.

Hamadi and the coastal road towards the airport are the other good wander. There is a beach, a market, and a string of small places to eat fish. On a clear day you can see across to the Cyclops Mountains, the low range that separates the city from the lake country inland.

The old harbour is worth a look as well, a working quay where boats come in with fish and timber and passengers from the islands. It is not restored or prettified, but it is where the city meets the water, and the activity is more interesting than any monument. Ask before you photograph, and keep out of the way of the loading.

• Walk or take an ojek up to the ridge roads for the view.
• Hamadi beach and market are best in the late afternoon.
• Carry cash: ATMs exist but are unreliable outside the centre.
• Avoid travelling after dark, and use a car rather than walking.

Markets and food

The markets are the heart of the city. You will find sago, sweet potato, greens, smoked fish, betel nut and fruit from the hills, sold by women who have come in from the villages that morning. The main market is busy from dawn and quiet by early afternoon.

The food is Papuan and Indonesian at once: papeda, the sago porridge, with yellow fish soup; grilled fish; mounds of rice; and the hot, sweet tea that goes with everything. Look for the small places with a queue of local customers and sit down. It is cheap, filling and the best introduction to the region.

Lake Sentani as a day trip

Lake Sentani is half an hour inland and a world away from the traffic. The road runs along the shore, boats cross to the villages on the islands, and the Cyclops Mountains stand behind the water. It is easy to combine with the airport, which sits on the lake side of the hills.

The villages on the lake are known for bark paintings, and Asei is the best known of them. Allow a full day if you want to take a boat, visit a village and come back before dark. There is more on the lake in its own guide.

Getting there and getting around

Sentani airport is the main gateway to Papua, with direct flights from Jakarta, Makassar, Surabaya and Biak. The airport is about forty minutes from the city centre on a good day and considerably longer in the evening. Allow time, and do not book a tight connection to the interior.

Within the city, ojek and bemo are the local transport, and taxis or a hired car are easier for visitors. Traffic is heavy at the start and end of the working day. If you are heading to the Baliem Valley, flights leave from Sentani and are weather-dependent, so build a buffer into your plans.

One practical note: some districts in the hills are better avoided after dark, and the roads out of town narrow quickly. If you are arriving late, arrange a pickup through your hotel rather than negotiating at the airport. Cash machines in the centre work most of the time; elsewhere, carry what you need.

Questions people actually ask

Is Jayapura safe for visitors?

The city is generally calm, but it is not a place to wander at night or to travel carelessly. Use a car or a local guide, avoid demonstrations, keep valuables out of sight and take local advice about which areas to avoid. Check your government's travel advice before you book.

How far is Lake Sentani from Jayapura?

About thirty to forty minutes by road, on the same side as the airport. Many visitors see the lake on the way in or out of Sentani airport. Allow a full day if you want a boat trip to the island villages as well.