Pangkalan Bun to Kumai: the road to the Tanjung Puting boats

Kumai sits at the mouth of the Kumai river, on the coast of Central Kalimantan, and it is the gateway to Tanjung Puting National Park. The town itself is a working port, with cargo ships, fishing boats and a long waterfront, but its main role for visitors is as the place where the klotok boats are moored.

The drive from Pangkalan Bun is short and straightforward, and most travellers do it on the morning of their boat trip. The road passes through the outskirts of town and then a landscape of rivers, palms and small farms, ending at the port where the boats wait.

Why go through Kumai

Tanjung Puting is a national park of peat swamp and lowland forest, and the rivers are the only practical way in. The Sekonyer river runs from Kumai into the park, and the klotok boats are the traditional transport: wooden boats with a covered deck, a kitchen and mattresses on the roof.

Kumai is where the boats are based, where the crews live and where the park permits are arranged. Going through the town is not a detour; it is the start of the trip. The port is also a good place to buy supplies, from water and snacks to insect repellent and rain gear.

The drive from Pangkalan Bun

The drive takes about thirty minutes on a paved road, passing through a mix of shops, workshops and palm plantations. Most boat operators include the transfer from the airport or your hotel, and the drive is easy. If you are travelling independently, a taxi or ride-hailing car costs around IDR 100,000 to 200,000.

The last stretch into Kumai passes the port gates and the fish market, where you may see cargo being unloaded. The klotok boats are moored along the river, and your crew will meet you at the jetty. Arrive by mid-morning so the boat can reach the first camp before dark.

The port and the boats

Kumai port is busy with coastal shipping, and the waterfront is lined with warehouses and fishing boats. The klotok boats are smaller and moored further along the river, away from the cargo docks. They range from simple two-person boats to larger vessels with cabins and western toilets.

A typical klotok has a covered upper deck with mattresses, a lower deck with a kitchen and a simple bathroom, and an outboard motor. The crew usually consists of a captain, a cook and sometimes a guide. Life jackets are provided, though standards vary, so check before you board.

The Tanjung Puting itinerary

Most trips are three days and two nights, which allows time at the three feeding stations: Tanjung Harapan, Pondok Tanggui and Camp Leakey. The boat motors upstream, moors overnight at the stations, and returns on the third morning. The pace is slow, and that is the point.

The feeding stations are where rehabilitated orangutans are given supplementary food, and they are the most reliable places to see them. The forest around the river is also home to proboscis monkeys, macaques, hornbills and crocodiles. Night walks and early morning boat rides are the best time for wildlife.

Costs and how to book

A private klotok for two people costs around IDR 2.5 to 4 million for three days, including crew, fuel, meals and park fees. Larger groups pay more but split the cost. Shared boats are cheaper, but the itinerary is fixed and the boat waits for other passengers.

Book through a reputable operator in Pangkalan Bun or online, and confirm what is included: park permits, ranger fees, meals, water and transfers. The park entrance fee is charged separately and varies for foreigners. Bring cash for tips and extras, because there are no ATMs in Kumai.

What to bring and when to go

The dry season, June to September, is the best time, with lower river levels and easier walking. The wet season raises the river and makes the forest lush, but rain can be heavy and the mosquitoes are worse. Either season works for orangutans, but the dry season is more comfortable.

Bring light long sleeves, a torch, insect repellent, a dry bag, binoculars and cash. The boats have basic toilets but no showers, and phone signal fades within an hour of Kumai. A power bank and a good book are essential for the evenings.

Life on the klotok

The klotok is not a cruise ship. It is a wooden boat with a small kitchen, a simple toilet and mattresses on the roof, and the crew lives on board for the duration of the trip. The days are slow, the river is quiet, and the forest comes right to the water's edge. It is one of the most peaceful ways to travel in Indonesia.

Meals are cooked on board and served on the deck, usually rice, fish, vegetables and fruit. Vegetarian and halal diets can be arranged with notice. The boat moors overnight at the feeding stations or on the riverbank, and the crew sets up mosquito nets and mattresses.

Bring a headtorch, a power bank and a book, because there is no wifi and the signal is patchy. The nights are dark and full of sound, and the early morning is the best time for wildlife. Tip the crew at the end of the trip, and treat the boat as you would someone's home.

The crew does the work that makes the trip comfortable: cooking, mooring, spotting wildlife and setting up the sleeping mats. They are usually from Kumai and know the river well. A tip at the end of the trip is customary, and it is the main way that local families benefit from tourism.

Questions people actually ask

Can I go straight from the airport to the boat?

Yes, if your operator meets you. The drive from Iskandar airport to Kumai takes about thirty minutes, and boats usually leave in the morning.

Do I need to book the klotok in advance?

In July and August, yes. In quieter months you can arrange one in Pangkalan Bun, but booking ahead secures a better boat and crew.

Are there toilets on the boat?

Yes, a simple toilet, but no showers. Bring wet wipes and a quick-dry towel. The larger boats have better facilities.

What is the park fee?

The entrance fee is charged separately and varies for foreigners. Confirm the current amount with your operator and bring cash in rupiah.