Surabaya: Indonesia's second city, built on trade

Surabaya is the second-largest city in Indonesia and the capital of East Java, a sprawling port of nearly three million people on the strait between Java and Madura. It is not a pretty city in the way Yogyakarta is, but it is a fascinating one: a trading hub where Arab, Chinese, Javanese and Madurese communities have lived side by side for centuries, and where the independence struggle left a mark that is still visible.

Most travellers pass through on the way to Bromo or Bali. That is understandable, but a day in Surabaya rewards the effort: the old town, the Ampel mosque, the clove-cigarette museum and the food are all worth the stop, and the city has a blunt, energetic charm that is very different from the courtly cities of central Java.

A city built by trade

Surabaya grew on the mouth of the Mas river, at the point where the sheltered strait meets the Java Sea. For centuries it was a trading port for rice, spices, timber and textiles, and its population reflected the trade: Javanese, Madurese, Chinese, Arabs from Hadhramaut, and later Dutch and other Europeans. The old town still has the warehouses, bridges and places of worship of that cosmopolitan past.

The city's modern identity was forged in 1945, when Indonesian fighters resisted British and Dutch troops in a battle that lasted weeks and killed thousands. The date, 10 November, is now Heroes' Day, and the city is proud of the title Kota Pahlawan, city of heroes. The battle is commemorated in monuments and museums, and it explains the city's self-image as tough and independent.

Old town and Jembatan Merah

The old town is centred on the red bridge, Jembatan Merah, which crossed the river in the Dutch period and became a symbol of the city. Around it are colonial warehouses, the old harbour offices and the Kota Lama district, much of it rundown but slowly being restored. The area is best explored on foot in the morning, when the market streets are busy and the light is good.

Nearby is the Masjid Kemayoran and the old Chinese quarter, with its temples and shophouses. The Dutch-era buildings are not as well preserved as in Jakarta or Bandung, but the layers of history are visible, and the streets have a raw, working character that is more interesting than a polished heritage district.

Ampel and the Arab quarter

The Ampel quarter, around the Masjid Sunan Ampel, is the heart of Surabaya's Arab community and one of the most atmospheric neighbourhoods in the city. The mosque was founded in the fifteenth century by one of the nine saints who brought Islam to Java, and the surrounding kampung is a maze of narrow lanes, shops, food stalls and houses built around courtyards.

This is a religious area, so dress modestly and ask before photographing. The mosque is active, and non-Muslim visitors may be allowed in parts of the complex outside prayer times. The food here is excellent: Arab-Indonesian dishes, grilled meat, flatbreads and strong coffee.

Museums: Sampoerna and the submarine

The House of Sampoerna is the city's most visited museum, housed in a 1930s Dutch-style complex that was once a clove-cigarette factory. The buildings are beautiful, the history of the kretek industry is well explained, and you can watch women hand-roll cigarettes at impressive speed. There is a cafe and a small gallery, and the museum is free.

The other unusual museum is the submarine KRI Pasopati, a Soviet-built Whiskey-class boat that served in the Indonesian navy and is now parked on land near the port. You can walk through the cramped interior, which is a vivid reminder of how recent and how technical the country's naval history is. Both museums are good for an hour each.

Suramadu and Madura

The Suramadu bridge, opened in 2009, is the longest bridge in Indonesia, spanning about 5.4 kilometres across the Madura Strait. It has transformed the relationship between Surabaya and the island of Madura, which is now a short drive away and supplies the city with salt, tobacco, fish and labour.

A day trip to Madura is easy: cross the bridge, visit the town of Bangkalan, see the traditional bull races if you are there in the season, and eat Madurese satay. The island is poorer and more conservative than Java, and the landscape is dry and dramatic. Go with a local driver and allow a full day.

Food and practical

Surabaya's food is some of the best in Indonesia. Rawon, the dark beef soup with keluak, is a local obsession; lontong balap combines rice cakes, bean sprouts, tofu and lentho in a savoury broth; rujak cingur is a salad of fruit, vegetables and cow's snout in a peanut dressing; and sate klopo is coconut-coated satay. Tahu tek, a tofu and potato dish with peanut sauce, is the street-food staple.

Juanda airport is about 20 kilometres south of the city, with frequent flights to Jakarta, Bali and eastern Indonesia. Trains run to Malang, Yogyakarta and Jakarta. The city is hot and congested, so use ride-hailing apps and plan around the traffic. One day is enough for the old town, Ampel and one museum; two days lets you add Madura.

• Morning: old town, Jembatan Merah and the Chinese quarter.
• Midday: Ampel mosque and lunch in the Arab quarter.
• Afternoon: House of Sampoerna and the submarine museum.
• Add a day for the Suramadu bridge and Madura, or a day trip to Bromo.

Questions people actually ask

Is Surabaya worth a stop?

Yes, for a day. The old town, the Ampel quarter, the House of Sampoerna and the food are enough to justify a night, especially if you are passing through to Bromo or Bali. It is not a beautiful city, but it is a real one.

How do I get from Surabaya to Bromo?

Bromo is about three to four hours by road. Most people join a tour or hire a car and driver, leaving Surabaya at night to reach the viewpoint before dawn. Malang is a more convenient base if you want a shorter drive.

What should I eat in Surabaya?

Rawon, lontong balap, rujak cingur, sate klopo and tahu tek. The best places are the warungs and food courts rather than the hotels, and the prices are low.

Can I visit Madura from Surabaya?

Yes. The Suramadu bridge makes it a short drive, and a day trip to Bangkalan and the surrounding villages is easy. The bull races are seasonal, usually August to September, so check the dates.