Tanjung Redeb: the town before the islands

Tanjung Redeb is the capital of Berau regency, a river town on the east coast of Kalimantan, and most people pass through it on the way to somewhere else. The somewhere else is usually the Derawan islands, a group of reefs and atolls an hour or two offshore, or the lakes and forests of the interior.

The town itself is not a destination, but it is a useful and friendly base. It has an airport, a market, a riverfront and a growing number of guesthouses and cafes. The food is good, the prices are low, and the mix of Bugis, Bajau, Dayak and Javanese communities gives it more texture than its size suggests.

The town and the river

Tanjung Redeb sits a few kilometres from the coast, on the Sungai Berau, the river that drains the interior of Berau. The riverfront is the heart of the town: boats tied up, fish sold on the bank, and ferries and speedboats heading downstream to the islands and upstream to the villages.

The market is the other centre of gravity, with fish, fruit, vegetables and the small snacks of the coast. The town is compact and walkable, though the heat makes a scooter or a becak more comfortable. In the evening, the food stalls along the main street fill with people and the smell of grilled fish.

The Derawan islands

The Derawan archipelago is the reason most visitors come to Berau: a group of small islands with white sand, clear water, turtles, manta rays and some of the best diving in Indonesia. Derawan, Maratua, Kakaban and Sangalaki are the main islands, each with a different character.

Boats leave from Tanjung Batu, about two hours north of Tanjung Redeb, or from the town jetty for some services. The crossing takes between thirty minutes and two hours depending on the island, and it is weather-dependent. Most people arrange a package through a guesthouse or dive operator, which includes the boat and the accommodation.

Allow at least three nights if you are going to the islands. The travel eats a day at each end, and the best diving and snorkelling is not on the doorstep. Bring cash, reef-safe sun cream and a sense of patience: the boats run on island time.

Labuan Cermin and the interior

Labuan Cermin is a small lake about two hours south of Tanjung Redeb, famous for its two layers of water: a cool freshwater layer above and a colder, salty layer below. The effect is a blurry, mirror-like boundary that swimmers can see, and the lake is surrounded by forest. It is a popular day trip, best in the morning before the groups arrive.

Further inland, the Berau river leads to Dayak villages and forest, and the road south runs towards the Mahakam lakes. The interior is not developed for tourism, but it is beautiful and largely empty, and a local guide can arrange a trip. Allow a full day for Labuan Cermin, more if you want to combine it with the river.

Getting there and staying

Kalimarau airport, about twenty minutes from town, has flights from Balikpapan, Samarinda, Tarakan and Jakarta. The terminal is small and efficient, and taxis are available. By road, Tanjung Redeb is a long drive from Balikpapan or Samarinda, and the road is good in parts and rough in others.

Accommodation ranges from simple guesthouses to a few mid-range hotels, mostly in the town centre. Book ahead in the dry season and around holidays, when divers fill the rooms. The town is a base, not a resort: do not expect a pool or a beach on the doorstep, but do expect good seafood and helpful people.

• Use the town as a base for the Derawan islands.
• Allow three nights minimum on the islands.
• Visit Labuan Cermin early, before the groups.
• Fly into Kalimarau, twenty minutes from town.
• Bring cash; ATMs are limited outside the centre.

Costs and practicalities

Tanjung Redeb is affordable: guesthouses and small hotels cost a fraction of Balikpapan prices, meals are cheap, and transport around town is a few dollars. The expense comes with the islands, where packages including boat, accommodation and diving add up quickly, especially in the dry season.

Book island trips through a reputable operator or guesthouse, and confirm what is included: transfers, meals, diving, park fees and the boat back. Weather can delay the crossing, so keep a buffer day before your flight out of Kalimarau. The airport is small, and flights fill in peak season.

The town is hot and humid all year. The dry season, March to October, is the best time for the islands; the wet season brings rain, rougher seas and cancelled boats. Bring cash, reef-safe sun cream and mosquito repellent, and do not rely on cards outside the main hotels.

Questions people actually ask

How do you get from Tanjung Redeb to the Derawan islands?

Boats leave from Tanjung Batu, about two hours north of town, and from the town jetty for some services. The crossing takes thirty minutes to two hours depending on the island. Most people book a package through a guesthouse or dive operator, which covers the boat and the accommodation.

Is Labuan Cermin worth a day trip?

Yes, if you are interested in the unusual two-layer lake and the forest around it. It is about two hours south of Tanjung Redeb and best visited in the morning. Combine it with a river trip or a village visit to make a full day of it.