Berastagi: the cool highlands of the Karo

Berastagi sits on a high plateau in the Karo highlands of North Sumatra, between the active volcano Sinabung and the smoking crater of Sibayak. It is a farming town, and its market overflows with passion fruit, oranges, cabbage, carrots, tomatoes and the flowers that grow in the cool climate. For Indonesians from Medan, it is the classic weekend escape from the coastal heat.

For travellers, Berastagi is a base for the volcanoes, the Karo villages and the northern rim of Lake Toba. The town itself is small and not especially beautiful, but the surrounding landscape is: dark volcanic soil, terraced vegetable gardens, traditional houses with curved buffalo-horn roofs, and mountains that appear and disappear in the cloud.

The Karo highlands

The Karo are one of the Batak peoples of North Sumatra, with their own language, script, calendar and architecture. Their traditional houses, the rumah siwaluh jabu, are long wooden structures raised on stilts and topped with a curved roof ending in buffalo horns. A few remain in villages such as Lingga, Dokan and Tongging, though many have been replaced by modern houses.

The highlands are fertile and intensively farmed. The volcanic soil and cool nights suit vegetables, fruit and flowers, and the road from Medan climbs through increasingly steep gardens. The area is also part of the Lake Toba caldera system, and the landscape is shaped by ancient eruptions, craters and lava flows.

Climbing Sibayak

Gunung Sibayak is the easier of the two volcanoes, a 2,181-metre cone with a crater full of sulphur vents, steam and yellow deposits. The climb from the trailhead near Semangat Gunung takes about one and a half to two hours, and the path is steep but straightforward. At the top you look into the crater and across the highlands to Sinabung and the distant peaks.

The climb is best started early, before the cloud builds. Bring a jacket, water and shoes with grip, and be careful near the vents, where the ground is unstable and the gas can be strong. Guides are not strictly required but are easy to arrange in Berastagi, and the hot springs at the foot of the mountain are a good place to recover afterwards.

The hot springs are a fixture of the highlands. Pools of warm, sulphur-smelling water have been developed into simple bathing complexes, some with private tubs and others with shared pools, and they are popular with families at weekends. The water comes from the volcanic system that feeds Sibayak, and the setting, with the mountain above and the gardens around, is pleasant even if the facilities are basic. Bring a towel and a change of clothes.

Sinabung: the volcano that woke up

Sinabung had been quiet for centuries before it erupted in 2010, and it has been active on and off ever since. Major eruptions in 2014 and 2016 forced the evacuation of villages on its slopes, and ash falls have damaged crops and closed the airport in Medan. The volcano is closely monitored, and exclusion zones are enforced.

For visitors, this means you cannot climb Sinabung and should not approach the exclusion zone. The best views are from a distance, especially from Gundaling hill or the road towards Kabanjahe, where the cone rises above the fields. The eruptions have also created a strange kind of dark tourism, with abandoned villages and ash-covered landscapes, but respect the warnings and the people who lost their homes.

Sipiso-piso and the Lake Toba rim

About 45 minutes from Berastagi, on the road towards Lake Toba, Sipiso-piso is a waterfall that drops about 120 metres into a green valley. The viewing platform is at the top, and a steep path leads down to the base, where the spray and the noise are impressive. The drive there passes through Karo villages and vegetable gardens with views over the caldera rim.

The same road continues to Tongging on the lake shore and to the viewpoint above the northern tip of Samosir. This is a good day trip from Berastagi, combining the waterfall, the lake and a Batak village. The road is winding and can be slow in the rain, so start early.

The market and the food

Berastagi's market is the best in the highlands, a sprawling hall of fruit, vegetables, spices, coffee and flowers. The passion fruit, known locally as markisa, is the speciality, and the syrup made from it is sold everywhere. Oranges, avocados, strawberries and the small, sweet tomatoes are also excellent.

The food is Karo and Batak: grilled pork, chicken cooked in spices, cassava leaves, and rice. The town has a growing cafe scene serving local coffee, and the hot springs resorts on the road to Sibayak serve simple meals. Prices are low, and the market is the place to buy snacks for a hike.

Practical and a plan

Berastagi is about two hours from Medan by road, on a winding mountain road that can be busy at weekends. Buses and shared cars leave from Medan's terminal, and a private car is the most comfortable option. The nearest airport is Kualanamu, near Medan, about three hours away.

The dry season, roughly May to September, gives the best chance of clear views, though the highlands can be cloudy at any time. One night is enough for Sibayak and the market; two nights allows Sipiso-piso and the lake, or a visit to the Karo villages.

• Day 1: arrive from Medan, visit the market and Gundaling hill, sleep in Berastagi.
• Day 2: climb Sibayak at dawn, soak in the hot springs, then Sipiso-piso in the afternoon.
• Add a day for the Karo villages of Lingga and Dokan, or the road down to Lake Toba.
• Bring a jacket: nights are cold and the volcano is colder.

Questions people actually ask

Is it safe to climb Sibayak?

Yes, when the volcano is not on alert. The path is steep but straightforward, and the crater is usually safe to approach with care. Check the current status and hire a guide if you are unsure. Sinabung is a different matter and cannot be climbed.

How long does the Sibayak climb take?

About 1.5 to 2 hours up and 1 to 1.5 hours down, depending on fitness and the route. Start early to avoid the cloud and the heat, and bring a jacket for the summit.

How do I get from Medan to Berastagi?

The drive takes about two hours on a winding mountain road. Buses and shared cars run from Medan, and a private car is the most comfortable option. The road can be slow at weekends and in the rain.

Can I see Lake Toba from Berastagi?

Not directly, but Sipiso-piso and the northern rim are about 45 minutes away by road, with views over the caldera and the lake. The drive is a good day trip, especially combined with a Karo village visit.