Bukit Lawang: the village at the edge of the rainforest

Bukit Lawang is a small village on the Bahorok river, at the edge of Gunung Leuser National Park. It exists in its current form because of the orangutan rehabilitation centre that opened here in 1973, and tourism is still built around the animals. The village is one long street of guesthouses, restaurants and trekking agencies, with the river on one side and the forest on the other.

The setting is beautiful: a fast, clear river running between steep, forested hills, with the canopy closing overhead a few hundred metres from the last guesthouse. The orangutans are wild or semi-wild, the jungle treks range from a half-day walk to a multi-day expedition, and the river is the local swimming pool, playground and road.

The village and the river

Bukit Lawang is built along the riverbank, with a footbridge connecting the two sides and a steep path up to the main street. The river is wide and shallow here, with rocks and small rapids, and the sound of it is constant. In the afternoon, local children swim and tube down the current, and the guesthouses light up along the bank.

The village was devastated by a flash flood in 2003, which killed around 200 people and destroyed much of the riverside. It has been rebuilt with international help, and the current layout is a response to that disaster: guesthouses set back from the water, evacuation routes marked, and a warning system. Tourism recovered, but the memory is still close.

The orangutan centre

The Bukit Lawang rehabilitation centre was established in 1973 by Monica Borner and Regina Frey, with support from the Frankfurt Zoological Society. For decades it took in orphaned and captive orangutans, taught them forest skills and released them into the national park. The centre stopped accepting new animals years ago, and the rehabilitation programme has largely wound down.

The orangutans you see today are the descendants of released animals, or wild animals that have become habituated to people. They are not tame, and they are not a guaranteed sighting. The old feeding platform is still a focus for treks, and the rangers put out fruit to supplement the animals' diet, but the forest is the real attraction: gibbons, Thomas's leaf monkeys, hornbills, monitor lizards and a huge variety of plants.

Trekking

The standard trek is a half-day or full-day walk in the forest, with a guide and permits from the national park office. The full-day trek includes more climbing, a longer route and a better chance of seeing wildlife, and it usually ends with a river descent back to the village. Multi-day treks go deeper into the park and include camping.

The terrain is steep, humid and often muddy, and the heat is intense. You need sturdy shoes, long trousers, insect repellent and at least two litres of water. Leeches are common in the wet season, and the trails can be slippery. Guides carry permits and food, and the good ones are serious about keeping a distance from the orangutans.

Tubing and village life

The other classic activity is tubing: floating down the river on a large inner tube, usually with a guide, through small rapids and calm stretches. It is fun, cheap and a good way to see the village from the water. Life jackets are provided, and the trip takes about an hour.

The village has a few shops, a market, a mosque and a growing number of cafes serving local coffee and Western breakfasts. The local people are a mix of Malay, Karo and Javanese, and many families depend on tourism. Prices are low, and the atmosphere is relaxed, though the touts near the bridge can be persistent.

A good day trip from Bukit Lawang is Tangkahan, a former logging village on the Batang river about two hours away, where a community-run elephant conservation programme offers river walks and bathing with the animals. The ethics are debated, and the elephants are working animals rather than wild ones, but the forest and river are beautiful and the visit supports local livelihoods. Arrange it through a reputable guesthouse and ask exactly what the elephants will be asked to do.

Ethics and the orangutans

Orangutan tourism at Bukit Lawang has a complicated history. Close contact, feeding and handling were common in the past and contributed to disease transmission and behavioural problems. The park now has stricter rules, but enforcement varies. Visitors should keep at least ten metres away, never touch or feed the animals, and avoid treks that promise close encounters.

Choose a guide who follows the rules and carries a permit. Do not go on a trek if you are ill, because orangutans are vulnerable to human respiratory diseases. The forest is also home to tigers, elephants and rhinos, though sightings are extremely rare; the ecosystem matters even when the charismatic species are not visible.

Practical and a plan

Bukit Lawang is about three to four hours from Medan by road, usually by shared car or tourist bus. The nearest airport is Kualanamu, near Medan. The road is good for most of the way and then narrows as it climbs into the hills. Most guesthouses can arrange a transfer.

Two days is the minimum: one for the village and one for a full-day trek. Three days allows a half-day trek, tubing and a slower stay. The dry season, May to September, is best for trekking, though it rains year-round and the forest is always humid.

• Day 1: arrive from Medan, settle in, swim or tube the river, arrange a trek.
• Day 2: full-day trek to the feeding platform and deeper forest, return by raft or on foot.
• Day 3: half-day walk, village visit, and the drive back to Medan.
• Add a night for a night walk and a day at the nearby hot springs.

Questions people actually ask

How do I get to Bukit Lawang?

It is a three- to four-hour drive from Medan, usually by shared car or tourist bus. Most guesthouses arrange transfers from Medan or the airport. The nearest airport is Kualanamu.

Will I see orangutans?

Sightings are common but not guaranteed. The animals are wild or semi-wild and move with the fruit. A full-day trek gives the best chance. Choose a guide who keeps a proper distance and follows park rules.

Do I need a permit for trekking?

Yes. Treks inside the national park require a permit, which your guide arranges at the park office. Do not trek with an unlicensed guide, and check that the price includes the permit and park fees.

Is Bukit Lawang suitable for children?

The village and tubing are fine for older children, but the treks are steep, hot and muddy. Half-day walks are possible for reasonably fit families. Very young children are better off staying near the river.