Pulau Weh: the island at kilometre zero

Pulau Weh lies off the northern tip of Sumatra, at the mouth of the Malacca Strait, and it is the westernmost part of Indonesia. The main town, Sabang, is a small port with a Dutch-era history, and the island is ringed by black-sand beaches, volcanic hills and coral reefs. The diving is the main attraction, but the island is also a good place to do very little.

The island is part of Aceh, and it is conservative and quiet. There is no nightlife to speak of, alcohol is limited, and the beaches are shared with fishing families. What you get instead is warm water, healthy reefs, a volcano to climb, and a view of the sea from almost everywhere.

The island

Pulau Weh is about 15 kilometres long and 10 kilometres wide, with a volcanic spine, dense forest and a coastline of black sand, rocky headlands and coral reefs. The island's highest point is Mount Api, a 617-metre volcano with a fumarole field and a trail through the forest. The interior is largely protected as a nature reserve.

Sabang, the main town, sits on the eastern tip and has the ferry terminal, the market, schools and most of the accommodation. The tourist beaches are on the northern and western coasts, especially Iboih, Gapang and Sumur Tiga. The island is small enough to explore by motorbike in a day, but the roads are steep and winding.

Sabang has a distinct colonial and naval heritage. In the late nineteenth and early twentieth centuries, the Dutch turned the deep natural harbour into a free port and coaling station for steamships travelling between Europe and the Far East, competing with Singapore. Old coaling wharves, warehouses and administrative buildings still stand around the bay, giving the town a maritime character quite different from the fishing villages of Iboih and Gapang.

Iboih and Rubiah

Iboih is the main dive village, a strip of guesthouses and restaurants on a black-sand bay, with the small island of Rubiah just offshore. The reef between the beach and Rubiah is shallow and accessible, and you can snorkel straight from the shore. There is a small jetty, a few dive shops and a relaxed, slightly scruffy atmosphere.

Rubiah island itself has a beach, a lighthouse and a reef that is good for snorkelling and diving. The crossing takes a few minutes by boat, or you can swim if you are confident. The reef has suffered from bleaching and fishing pressure, but it is still colourful, with turtles, reef fish and occasional sharks.

Diving and snorkelling

Pulau Weh is one of the better dive destinations in western Indonesia, with warm water, good visibility and a variety of sites. The reefs around Rubiah, Seulako and the BTN sites are the most popular, with coral gardens, drop-offs and a small wreck. The island is also known for manta rays and whale sharks, though sightings are seasonal and not guaranteed.

The best conditions are usually in the dry season, roughly January to September, with calmer seas and clearer water. The dive shops in Iboih and Gapang offer courses, fun dives and equipment rental, and the prices are lower than in Bali or Komodo. Currents can be strong at some sites, so dive with a guide who knows the conditions.

Mount Api and the interior

The trek to the summit of Mount Api takes about three to four hours return, through rainforest and up a steep trail to a crater with fumaroles and views over the island and the sea. The trail is muddy and humid, and a guide is recommended. The forest is home to monkeys, hornbills and a variety of plants, including orchids and pitcher plants.

The island also has a few historical sites, including Japanese bunkers from the Second World War and the Dutch-era buildings in Sabang. The Kilometer Nol monument, at the western tip, marks the end of the Indonesian archipelago, and it is a popular photo stop. The beaches at Gapang and Sumur Tiga are good for swimming and sunset.

Where to stay and what to eat

Accommodation is concentrated in Iboih and Gapang, with simple bungalows, guesthouses and a few dive resorts. Rooms are basic, with fans or air conditioning, and many places have a restaurant. Sabang has more hotels and guesthouses, but the beaches are a motorbike ride away.

The food is Acehnese and Indonesian: fish, rice, noodles, curry and the strong coffee that Aceh is known for. The restaurants in Iboih serve fresh fish, prawns and squid, and there are a few Western options for divers. Alcohol is limited, and the island is conservative, so dress modestly away from the beach.

Getting there and a plan

The ferry leaves from Ulee Lheue in Banda Aceh to Balohan on Pulau Weh. The fast ferry takes about 45 minutes to an hour, the slow ferry around two hours. Banda Aceh is served by Sultan Iskandar Muda airport, with flights from Jakarta, Medan and Kuala Lumpur.

Three days is the minimum for a dive trip, and five is better. The dry season, January to September, is the best time for diving and trekking, though the island can be rainy in the transition months. Bring cash, reef-safe sunscreen and a light rain jacket.

• Day 1: ferry from Banda Aceh, transfer to Iboih, afternoon snorkel at Rubiah.
• Day 2: two dives, or the Mount Api trek and a beach afternoon.
• Day 3: motorbike loop to Gapang, Sumur Tiga and Kilometer Nol, sunset.
• Add two days for a dive course or more time on the reef.

Questions people actually ask

How do I get to Pulau Weh?

Fly to Banda Aceh, take a taxi to Ulee Lheue port, and catch the ferry to Balohan on Pulau Weh. The fast ferry takes about 45 minutes to an hour, the slow ferry around two hours.

Is Pulau Weh good for beginner divers?

Yes. The reef at Iboih and Rubiah is shallow and accessible, and the dive shops offer courses for beginners. Some sites have strong currents, so dive with a guide and choose sites that match your level.

Can I swim at the beaches?

Yes, especially at Iboih, Gapang and Sumur Tiga. The beaches are black sand and the water is warm. Watch for currents and reef edges, and dress modestly away from the tourist beaches.

When is the best time to visit?

The dry season, roughly January to September, brings calmer seas and better visibility. The wet season can be rough, with cancelled ferries and dive trips. The island is quiet year-round.