Banda Aceh: a city rebuilt after the wave

Banda Aceh sits at the northern tip of Sumatra, where the Indian Ocean meets the Malacca Strait. It was the capital of the Aceh Sultanate, one of the most powerful states in Southeast Asia, and it is still the most visibly Islamic city in Indonesia. The great Baiturrahman mosque dominates the centre, and the call to prayer shapes the rhythm of the day.

The city is also defined by the 2004 Indian Ocean tsunami, which killed around 167,000 people in Aceh and flattened much of the coast. Almost every visitor comes to see the memorials, and they are worth seeing. But Banda Aceh is more than a disaster site: it has a long history, a distinctive cuisine, and a position as the gateway to Pulau Weh and the dive sites at the western end of the archipelago.

The sultanate and the mosque

Aceh was a major trading power from the sixteenth century, controlling the pepper and betel nut trade through the Malacca Strait and resisting Portuguese and Dutch attempts to dominate the region. Banda Aceh, then known as Bandar Aceh Darussalam, was a cosmopolitan port with traders from Arabia, India, China and Europe. The sultanate's power declined in the nineteenth century, and the Aceh War against the Dutch lasted from 1873 to 1914.

The Baiturrahman mosque was built in 1879 by the Dutch as a gesture of reconciliation after the destruction of an earlier mosque. It is a large, white building with seven domes, a marble courtyard and a tall minaret, and it survived the 2004 tsunami, becoming a refuge for survivors. Non-Muslim visitors are welcome outside prayer times, but dress modestly and follow the signs.

The modern history of Aceh is inseparable from conflict. The Free Aceh Movement fought a low-level insurgency against the Indonesian state from the 1970s until 2005, when a peace agreement was signed in Helsinki after the tsunami created a political opening. The deal gave Aceh greater autonomy, a larger share of its oil and gas revenue, and the right to apply sharia law. The peace has held, and the province has rebuilt, but the scars of both the conflict and the tsunami are still visible.

The tsunami and its memorials

On 26 December 2004, a magnitude 9.1 earthquake off the coast of Sumatra triggered a tsunami that struck Aceh within half an hour. Waves up to 30 metres high destroyed coastal settlements, including much of Banda Aceh, and the death toll in the province reached around 167,000. It remains one of the deadliest natural disasters in recorded history.

The city's memorials are sombre and effective. The Tsunami Museum, designed by Ridwan Kamil, is a dark, curved building with a narrow entrance corridor that evokes the wave, and a memorial hall with the names of the dead. The PLTD Apung 1, a 2,600-tonne generator ship, was carried about five kilometres inland and now sits in a residential neighbourhood as a monument. Both are free or cheap and take about an hour each.

Old Aceh: Gunongan and the Dutch cemetery

Gunongan, a small carved stone structure in the centre of the city, was built in the seventeenth century as a playground for a sultan's bride, and it is one of the few surviving monuments of the sultanate. Nearby is the Kerkhoff, a Dutch military cemetery with rows of weathered headstones, and the Museum Negeri Aceh, which covers the region's history, textiles and Islamic manuscripts.

The old city is not large, and a morning walk covers most of it. The streets around the mosque are full of shops selling Acehnese coffee, cakes and religious books. The atmosphere is conservative and calm, and the city feels smaller and quieter than its history would suggest.

Acehnese food

Aceh has one of the most distinctive cuisines in Indonesia. Mie aceh is a thick, spicy noodle dish with beef, goat or seafood, served with pickled shallots and a lime wedge. Nasi gurih is rice cooked in coconut milk, served with various side dishes, and kuah pliek u is a sour vegetable curry made with fermented coconut, a dish that tastes like nothing else in the country.

The coffee culture is serious. Kopi sanger is a strong espresso-like coffee mixed with condensed milk, and the coffee shops around the city are social institutions. For something sweet, try timphan, a banana and coconut cake steamed in banana leaf, and the various Acehnese kuih sold in the markets. Alcohol is restricted under Aceh's sharia law, so do not expect beer or wine with dinner.

Practical: dress, rules and getting there

Aceh applies sharia law, and the rules are visible: modest dress for men and women, restrictions on alcohol, and public caning for certain offences. Visitors are not expected to be Muslims, but they are expected to respect local norms. Cover shoulders and knees, avoid public displays of affection, and ask before entering religious buildings.

Sultan Iskandar Muda airport is about 20 minutes from the city, with flights to Jakarta, Medan, Kuala Lumpur and other hubs. The city is compact and easy to walk, with ride-hailing cars and becak for longer trips. The ferry to Pulau Weh leaves from Ulee Lheue, about 15 minutes from the centre.

A plan that works

One day is enough for the city's main sights: the mosque, the tsunami museum, the PLTD Apung ship and the old town. Two days allows a slower visit and a trip to the beaches at Lhoknga and Lampuuk, which are beautiful and still bear the marks of the tsunami.

The dry season on the north coast runs roughly from January to September, with the heaviest rain from October to December. The city is hot and humid year-round, so plan indoor visits for the middle of the day.

• Morning: Baiturrahman mosque, then the Museum Negeri Aceh and Gunongan.
• Midday: lunch of mie aceh, then the Tsunami Museum.
• Afternoon: PLTD Apung 1 and the coastal villages at Lhoknga or Lampuuk.
• Next day: ferry to Pulau Weh for diving and snorkelling.

Questions people actually ask

Can non-Muslims visit the Baiturrahman mosque?

Yes, outside prayer times and with modest dress. Women should cover their hair, and everyone should remove their shoes. Follow the signs and the instructions of the staff, and avoid visiting during Friday prayers.

Is Banda Aceh safe for tourists?

Yes. The city is generally safe and welcoming, with low crime. The main considerations are cultural: dress modestly, respect sharia rules, and avoid alcohol. Check your government's travel advice for the wider province.

How do I get to Pulau Weh from Banda Aceh?

Take a taxi to Ulee Lheue port, about 15 minutes from the centre, and catch the ferry to Balohan on Pulau Weh. The fast ferry takes about 45 minutes to an hour, the slow ferry around two hours.

What should I see in one day?

The Baiturrahman mosque, the Tsunami Museum, the PLTD Apung ship and the old town around Gunongan. If you have time, drive to the beaches at Lhoknga and Lampuuk in the afternoon.