Samosir: the island inside the lake

Samosir is the largest island in Lake Toba and one of the largest lake islands in the world. It was formed by volcanic activity after the great Toba eruption, and it is connected to the mainland by a narrow isthmus at Pangururan. The island is green, hilly and quiet, with rice fields, coffee gardens, fishing villages and a ring road that follows the shore.

For the Batak Toba, Samosir is the ancestral homeland. The island has the most important traditional villages, the oldest stone tombs and the strongest surviving culture. For visitors, it is a base for the lake: guesthouses on the Tuk Tuk peninsula, boats to the villages, and views across the water to the caldera rim.

The island and its shape

Samosir covers about 630 square kilometres, and its interior is a plateau of hills, farmland and forest, with a coastline that curves in and out along the lake. The highest point is about 1,700 metres, and the views from the ridges take in the whole caldera. The island is connected to the mainland by the Pangururan isthmus, a narrow neck of land that separates the main lake from the smaller Sidihoni lake.

The island's economy is agricultural: rice, coffee, vegetables, fish and tourism. The villages are strung along the shore road, and the interior is a patchwork of fields and secondary forest. The pace is slow, the climate is cool, and the lake is never far away.

Tomok and the stone tombs

Tomok is the main arrival point, with the ferry terminal, a market and the tomb of King Sidabutar, one of the most important Batak royal graves. The tomb is a carved stone sarcophagus with a guardian figure, and the surrounding complex has other tombs and a small museum. The village is also the centre of the souvenir trade, with wood carvings, textiles and musical instruments.

The Batak tombs are not graves in the Western sense; they are monuments to ancestors, and they are still cared for by the families. The carvings show the distinctive Batak style, with geometric patterns, lizards, buffalo horns and human figures. Ask before photographing, and dress modestly.

Ambarita and the stone chairs

Ambarita is the most famous of the traditional villages, with a circle of stone chairs and a stone table where the community council met. The site is associated with the old justice system, and the guide will explain the roles of the chairs, the accused, the judges and the executioner. It is a sobering place, and the story is told with a mixture of pride and caution.

The village also has traditional houses with carved facades and buffalo-horn roofs, and a small museum. The setting is beautiful, with the lake in front and the hills behind, and the village is a short drive or walk from Tuk Tuk. Visit in the morning, before the tour groups.

Simanindo and the north

Simanindo, on the northern coast, has the former house of a Batak raja that is now a museum, with a collection of carvings, textiles and ritual objects. The village also stages traditional dance performances for visitors, with the gondang drum ensemble and the tortor dance. It is one of the best places to see Batak performance without travelling to a major festival.

The north coast road continues to Pangururan, the isthmus and the hot springs, and to the views over the lake and the mainland. The Sidihoni lake, a small lake inside the island, is a quiet detour. The whole loop can be done in a day by motorbike or car.

Holbung and the viewpoints

Holbung Hill is the best-known viewpoint on Samosir, a grassy ridge with a 360-degree panorama of the lake, the caldera rim and the island. The walk to the top takes about 30 to 45 minutes from the road, and it is best at sunrise, when the mist lifts off the water. The hill is also a popular camping spot.

Other viewpoints include the Tele tower above Tuk Tuk, the cliffs at Pusuk Buhit on the mainland, and the road above Tomok. The light changes quickly, and the lake can be glassy in the morning and choppy in the afternoon. Bring a jacket and a camera, and allow time to sit and watch.

Where to stay and what to eat

The Tuk Tuk peninsula is the main tourist area, with guesthouses, restaurants and bars along the shore. It is relaxed and cheap, with a mix of Batak family guesthouses and small hotels. Tomok and Pangururan have more local accommodation, and the interior has a few homestays on farms.

The food is Batak: arsik, carp cooked with spices and herbs; mie gomak, a thick noodle soup; naniura, raw fish cured in lime; and saksang, a pork dish cooked with blood and spices. The lake fish is excellent, and the highlands produce coffee and fruit.

Getting there and a plan

The ferry from Ajibata, near Parapat, crosses to Tomok in about 45 minutes to an hour. From Medan, the drive to Parapat takes four to five hours; from Silangit airport, about an hour and a half. The island can also be reached by road via the Pangururan isthmus.

Two days is enough for Tomok, Ambarita and Holbung; three days allows a full loop, Simanindo and a slower stay. The dry season, May to September, is best for views and outdoor activities, though the highlands can be cloudy at any time.

• Day 1: ferry to Tomok, visit the tombs, continue to Tuk Tuk and swim.
• Day 2: Ambarita and Simanindo in the morning, Holbung Hill at sunrise or sunset.
• Day 3: loop to Pangururan, the hot springs and the Sidihoni lake.
• Add a day for a Batak cooking class, a village stay or kayaking on the lake.

Questions people actually ask

How do I get to Samosir?

Take the ferry from Ajibata near Parapat to Tomok, which takes about 45 minutes to an hour, or drive to the island via the Pangururan isthmus. Parapat is four to five hours from Medan, or about 1.5 hours from Silangit airport.

Where should I stay on Samosir?

The Tuk Tuk peninsula is the main tourist area, with a range of guesthouses and restaurants on the lake. Tomok is convenient for the ferry and the tombs. Pangururan is quieter and closer to the hot springs.

What are the stone chairs of Ambarita?

A circle of stone seats and a table where the traditional village council met, associated with the old justice system. A local guide explains the roles and history. It is an important cultural site, so behave respectfully.

Is Samosir good for swimming?

Yes, especially around Tuk Tuk and the beaches near Tomok. The lake is deep and can be cold, and there are few lifeguards, so swim near your guesthouse and avoid swimming alone.