Nasi Campur: rice, and whatever else the kitchen has

Nasi campur means “mixed rice”, and it is exactly what it sounds like: a plate of rice with several small portions of meat, vegetables, tofu, egg and sambal arranged around it. There is no fixed recipe, and every region, warung and family has its own version.

For a visitor, it is the single most useful dish in Indonesia. It lets you taste five or six things in one meal, it is cheap, and it is available everywhere from Bali to Sulawesi. If you do not know what to order, order nasi campur and point at the dishes that look good.

What goes on the plate

The constants are rice, a protein and sambal. Around them, the cook adds whatever is available: fried chicken, grilled fish, rendang, tofu, tempeh, boiled egg, vegetables, peanuts, fried shallots and a spoonful of sauce. The plate should have contrast: something rich, something fresh, something spicy and something crunchy.

In a warung, the dishes are displayed behind glass, and you point at what you want. In a restaurant, the components are listed on the menu and the kitchen assembles them. Either way, the idea is the same: a complete meal in small portions, eaten together.

• Rice as the base
• One or two proteins
• Vegetables and tofu or tempeh
• Sambal and fried shallots

The Balinese version

In Bali, nasi campur usually includes lawar, sate lilit, a piece of fried chicken or pork, egg, vegetables and a spoonful of spicy sauce. The flavours are built on base genep, the Balinese spice paste, and the plate is often a way to try several ceremonial dishes at once.

The best Balinese nasi campur comes from family warungs and market stalls, where the lawar is made fresh and the sate is grilled to order. In Ubud, the morning market is a good place to start; in Denpasar, the warungs around the markets serve generous plates at low prices.

The Javanese and Chinese versions

In Java, nasi campur tends to be sweeter and more soy-based, with dishes such as ayam goreng, tempeh, tahu bacem and sayur lodeh. In Yogyakarta, the plate might include gudeg, the sweet jackfruit stew, and a piece of opor ayam in coconut milk.

The Chinese-Indonesian version, often called nasi campur Tionghoa, includes roast pork, char siu, egg, vegetables and a drizzle of soy sauce. It is common in Jakarta, Medan and other cities with large Chinese communities, and it is a separate tradition worth seeking out.

How to order

At a warung, look at the display and point. The vendor will ask what you want, and you can say “nasi campur” and then indicate the dishes. If you want rice only with one dish, say “nasi plus” and name the dish. If you want everything, ask for “campur semua”.

Ask for sambal on the side if you are unsure about heat, and say “tanpa” plus the name of anything you do not want. In a restaurant, the menu will list the components, and you can usually choose two or three. Prices are per plate, not per dish.

What it costs and where to eat it

A plate costs IDR 25,000 to 50,000 at a warung and IDR 50,000 to 70,000 in a restaurant. In Bali and Jakarta, tourist areas charge more. It is one of the best-value meals in the country, especially at market stalls and small family warungs.

Look for a warung with a busy lunch trade and a fresh display. The dishes should look recently cooked, and the queue should be local. In Bali, the morning markets and the warungs around them are excellent; in Java, the pasar and the streets around them are the place to start.

Building a good plate

The pleasure of nasi campur is in the combination. Choose something rich, such as rendang or fried chicken, something fresh, such as cucumber or water spinach, something fermented or spicy, such as sambal or pickles, and something crunchy, such as fried shallots or crackers.

Do not overfill the plate. A good nasi campur has small portions of several things, not a mountain of one. Eat a little of each with the rice, and finish with the sambal. If you find a dish you love, ask for a second portion; the vendor will be pleased.

How to eat at a warung

A warung is a small, family-run restaurant, and it is the heart of everyday eating in Indonesia. The menu is short, the prices are low, and the food is cooked in the morning and served through the day. Some warungs specialise in one dish; others offer a display of several.

The etiquette is simple. Sit where there is space, order at the counter or from the display, and pay when you leave. Tissues and cutlery are on the table, and water is often free or a few thousand rupiah. Do not expect air conditioning or a printed menu, and do not be surprised if the family is eating at the next table.

Eating at a warung is cheaper and often better than a restaurant, and it is a way to support local families. Look for a busy place with fresh food, and be polite about what you do not want. If you become a regular, you will be greeted by name, and the cook will remember your order. That is the reward.

At a market, nasi campur is often served from a stall with a dozen dishes in trays. Point at what you want, and the vendor will spoon it onto the rice. Ask for the price before you choose if it is not displayed, and keep track of what you have ordered. The plate is usually assembled in front of you, so you can see exactly what you are getting.

One final tip: ask for the sambal on the side, even if you like heat. The vendor’s sambal may be much hotter than you expect, and it is easier to add than to remove. Taste each dish separately before mixing, and save a little rice for the end to cool your mouth.

Questions people actually ask

What is nasi campur?

A plate of rice with several small portions of meat, vegetables, tofu, egg and sambal. It is a way of eating rather than a fixed recipe, and every region has its own version.

Is nasi campur halal?

Usually yes, but the Chinese-Indonesian version contains pork. Balinese versions may contain pork too. Look for the halal sign or ask.

How do I order it?

At a warung, point at the dishes you want from the display. Say nasi campur, then indicate each dish. Ask for sambal on the side if you want to control the heat.

How much does it cost?

IDR 25,000 to 50,000 at a warung and up to IDR 70,000 in a restaurant. Tourist areas charge more, but it remains good value.