A Bornean orangutan in Tanjung Puting National Park

Region 07 / 07

Kalimantan

Indonesian Borneo: black rivers, orangutans and a chain of atolls off the east coast. The interior is reached by boat, and that is the attraction.

8 days Pangkalan Bun to Berau May to September

The shape of the trip

The river first, then the reef

Kalimantan is the Indonesian two-thirds of Borneo, split into five provinces. The south-central lowlands are peat swamp and blackwater river; the east coast has the Derawan archipelago, a handful of small islands with turtles, manta rays and a very slow pace. Between them is a lot of forest and not many roads.

The classic combination is a three-day klotok boat trip out of Kumai, near Pangkalan Bun, followed by a flight to Berau for Derawan and Maratua. It is not a loop: you backtrack through Balikpapan or Jakarta. Eight days is the minimum that does both without rushing.

Don’t miss

Orangutans, atolls and a slow boat

Three stops, two of them on water. Book the boat and the park permits before you arrive.

A Bornean orangutan in Tanjung Puting Central Kalimantan

Tanjung Puting

A national park built around rehabilitation camps at Camp Leakey, Tanjung Harapan and Pondok Tanggui. The river is the only road in.

Aerial view of Derawan island and its reef East Kalimantan

Derawan

A small island with a big reef, green turtles in the seagrass and a village that runs on boats. The sunsets are the main evening event.

The lagoon and reef at Maratua Island Derawan Islands

Maratua

A coral atoll with a lagoon the colour of mouthwash and a channel where big fish come in on the tide. Reach it by speedboat from Berau or Derawan.

Practical

When to go, how to move

01

When to go

May to September is the driest window, with easier river travel and calmer crossings to Derawan. The park runs year-round; the wet season brings high water, insects and occasional closures. July and August are the busiest weeks, so book klotoks early.

02

Getting there

Pangkalan Bun (PKN) has flights from Jakarta and Semarang. Berau (BEJ) is reached via Balikpapan (BPN) or Jakarta. Most itineraries pass through Balikpapan anyway; it is the region’s main airport and a useful place to break the journey.

03

Getting around

Klotoks are wooden riverboats with a cabin, a deck and a cook; three days and two nights is the standard Tanjung Puting trip. From Berau, a car to the jetty and a speedboat to Derawan takes about two hours. Maratua is another hour by boat.

A route that works

Eight days, river to reef

Planning guide
01

Pangkalan Bun

Land, buy supplies, and meet the boat operator. The town is small and the river is ten minutes away.

1 night
02

Tanjung Puting

Three days on a klotok: Camp Leakey, the feeding stations and a night on the river with the engine off.

2 nights on board
03

Balikpapan

Back to Pangkalan Bun, fly east, sleep near the airport. A useful reset between river and reef.

1 night
04

Derawan

Fly to Berau, drive to the jetty, speedboat out. Two nights on the island, one day for the turtles and the reef.

2 nights
05

Maratua

Speedboat to the atoll, one night in a lagoon-side bungalow, and the channel at first light.

1 night
06

Berau

Boat back, one night near the airport, and the morning flight out.

1 night