Martabak: two dishes, one name, endless fillings

Martabak is one of those words that means two completely different things. Martabak manis, also called terang bulan, is a thick sweet pancake cooked in a special pan, filled with chocolate, cheese, peanuts and condensed milk, and cut into squares. Martabak telur is a savoury folded omelette with minced meat and spring onion, wrapped in a thin pastry and fried.

Both are sold from stalls in the evening, and both are best eaten hot, straight from the pan. The sweet version is a dessert to share; the savoury version is a snack or a light meal. If you are offered martabak in Indonesia, ask which one, because the answer changes everything.

Martabak manis: the sweet one

The batter is a simple mix of flour, egg, sugar, yeast and coconut milk, left to rise so the pancake cooks with a spongy, porous texture. It is poured into a thick, heavy pan, cooked until the base is golden and the top is full of holes, then filled and folded.

The classic filling is a combination of chocolate sprinkles, grated cheese, crushed peanuts and condensed milk, which sounds excessive and is. Other versions add banana, durian, red bean, matcha or Nutella. The pancake is cut into squares and served in a box, and it is meant to be shared.

• Thick, spongy yeast batter
• Chocolate, cheese and peanuts
• Condensed milk drizzle
• Cut into squares to share

Martabak telur: the savoury one

The savoury version starts with a thin wheat pastry, stretched until it is almost transparent. A filling of beaten egg, minced beef or chicken, spring onion, onion and curry powder is poured into the middle, the pastry is folded into a parcel, and the whole thing is fried until crisp.

The result is a flat, golden parcel with a soft, savoury filling and a crunchy shell. It is usually served with pickled cucumber and a chilli sauce, and it is a popular evening snack or a side dish with rice. Some vendors add cheese or mushrooms, but the classic is egg and meat.

How it is cooked

The sweet martabak is cooked in a dedicated pan, which is thick and heavy so the heat is even. The batter is poured in, bubbles form, and the pancake is cooked on one side until the base is crisp. The filling goes on while it is still in the pan, then the pancake is folded and brushed with butter.

The savoury martabak is cooked in a large flat pan with plenty of oil. The pastry is stretched by hand, filled, folded and fried until golden. Both versions take a few minutes, and the cooking is part of the appeal: the stall is usually set up so you can watch.

Where to eat it

Martabak stalls appear in the evening, often on street corners, in night markets and near universities. In Jakarta, the stalls around Kemang, Tebet and Kota Tua are well known. In Yogyakarta, the area around Malioboro and the campuses has plenty of options.

Look for a stall with a queue and a cook working to order. Martabak that has been sitting in a box is a different thing entirely: the sweet version goes soggy and the savoury one loses its crunch. Eat it within a few minutes of buying.

What it costs and how to order

Martabak manis costs around IDR 40,000 to 90,000 for a whole pan, depending on the filling, and is usually shared by two to four people. Martabak telur costs IDR 25,000 to 45,000 per piece. Prices are higher in malls and tourist areas.

Order the sweet one by filling: “martabak manis coklat keju” is the classic chocolate and cheese. For the savoury version, ask for “martabak telur daging” if you want meat, or “martabak telur biasa” for the standard. Say “tanpa keju” if you do not want cheese.

Martabak in the Indonesian night

Martabak is evening food, sold when the heat drops and the streets fill. It is eaten after dinner, on the way home from work, or as a late-night snack with friends. The stalls often stay open until midnight or later, and the busiest ones are worth waiting for.

The dish is a good example of how Indonesian food mixes influences: the sweet version has Chinese and Dutch roots, the savoury one has Indian and Arab connections, and both have been thoroughly localised. Eating martabak is a small lesson in the country’s history.

The pan, the stall and the craft

A martabak stall is a small piece of engineering. The sweet version needs a thick, heavy pan with a lid, so the pancake cooks evenly and the top sets. The savoury version needs a wide, flat pan and a lot of oil. Most stalls have both, and the cook moves between them.

The batter for martabak manis is made in advance and left to rise, sometimes with a little baking soda for extra lift. The cook pours it into the pan, waits for the bubbles, and adds the filling while the pancake is still in the pan. The folding is quick and practised.

The savoury version is made to order: the pastry is stretched, filled, folded and fried. The cook judges the oil temperature by eye and turns the parcel with a spatula. It is hot, fast work, and the best stalls have a rhythm that comes from years of practice. Watching it is half the pleasure of eating it.

Martabak has followed Indonesian communities abroad, and you can find it in Malaysia, Singapore, the Netherlands and Australia. The sweet version is usually called martabak manis or terang bulan, and the savoury version is often sold as murtabak. The fillings adapt to local tastes, but the thick, spongy base and the crisp savoury parcel are recognisable anywhere.

If you are buying martabak to take away, ask them to cut it but not to close the box. The steam softens the crust, and the sweet version goes soggy quickly. Eat it within twenty minutes, preferably on the street where you bought it. That is how it is meant to be eaten.

Questions people actually ask

What is the difference between martabak manis and martabak telur?

Manis is a thick sweet pancake with chocolate, cheese and peanuts. Telur is a savoury folded omelette with meat and spring onion in crisp pastry. They are completely different dishes.

Is martabak manis very sweet?

Yes. It is filled with chocolate sprinkles, condensed milk and cheese, and it is meant to be shared. Ask for less condensed milk if you prefer it milder.

Where can I find martabak?

Evening stalls across Indonesia, especially in Jakarta and Yogyakarta, plus night markets and food courts. Look for a stall cooking to order.

Is martabak halal?

Yes, the standard versions are halal. The savoury version may contain beef or chicken, and the sweet version is dairy and flour based.